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What a good idea and well done Dad! Mine are fcuked as well, might think about doing something similar.

Thanks Chip, as always yes you're right, at least on F1's as they have a raised lip just behind the spokes. I've subsequently had to fit the wheel weights right on the outside edge of this lip just behind the spokes as otherwise they were clipping the callipers.

It's not clear if you mean if the calliper will hit the back of the spokes or the inside of the wheel. There are so many permeations that I think its all trial and error. I used to run 295mm rotors with my old Willwoods but could only fit 290mm (I think) rotors with my Alcons because the...

I've got Alcon 4-Pots with seperate bells & rotors and as far as I know the bells are not any thicker than normal and the studs dont look to screw in any further.

My 20mm non-bolt-to-hub (Type A) spacers will be off the car this weekend if they're any good to anyone else? (FYI Type B spacers are the bolt to hub version) I was running these on the rears and there was plenty of the PM studs left.

Yes sorry you're right, I got myself all mixed-up there!! The less the number offset the greater they will stick out from the hub. So you will have reduced your overall track width by fitting the F1's but can then make this up by fitting the spacers.

I think the actual mechanical suspension track may be wider on the Cup, but then this is allowed for by having less offset wheels. If you have fitted PH1 ET43 wheels then you have actually increased your total track width. Which isn't a bad thing but you will have to keep an eye on clearance...

I think you'll be fine then. I think my original OEM F1's are ET43, so you must either have wider track suspension or wheel offset from standard for the 43's to decrease the track width. Like I said, there are a multitude of different OEM set-ups/offsets.

The rear 20mm spacers I'm taking off slide over the PM studs and I've had no problems. I'm increasing these to 25mm so am going to fit spacers that bolt to the hub and then the studs screw into the spacers. There are a multitude of different spec OEM Clio suspension set-ups and wheel...

Thanks Chip. I enlarged a photo of the supplied bolts on the FK page and they appear to have 10.9 stamped on them which would indicate they should withstand the normal wheel bolt torque of 105NM. I seem to remember JMS also saying this a few years ago when they first fitted them. Will use...

Well I finally got around to wiring up the windscreen circuits, was a fairly easy but fiddly job to do. Went to try it out for the first time and sod's law it didn't work!! - there was no voltage coming from the two timed relay live pins when supposedly switched on using the momentary...

Hey Chip, I've just ordered a set of 30mm spacers using the link you kindly provided. Quick couple of questions please - the PM studs only need to be tightened into the spacers by 20 NM, but what torque do the bolts that fasten the spacers to the hubs need to be tightened to? and should I...

Thanks Chip, they'll do very nicely!

Hi Chip, I've been let down by DAN@MAD on the new spacers, where did you get your 30mm spacers from please? - I cant seem to find them anywhere on t'net. Thanks Mark

Right, I've figured it all out...... It is possible to buy illuminated momentary switches where the LED feed is independent of the switch itself, but I've already bought my non-illuminated momentary switch and have therefore bought two 12V LEDs and their little holders and will run these from...

Thanks James - I like that idea! Although wouldn't the switch be getting the full 25A from the relay pin when active? Now that I've bought these timed relays I might as well make the most of them and would need a momentary switch, which I have, but with a light in the middle.

Sod's law as soon as I get around to finally wiring up the heated windscreen the weather improves and I'm not actually going to be able to see if its working. This got be thinking if there was a way of telling if it was on or not (on the basis that its wired ok). I cant remember how the...

Somebody must know?!

I know this sounds obvious but could someone who knows for definite please confirm that the green arrow pointing out from the tank is the fuel feed and the red arrow pointing back into the tank is the fuel return. There isn't some strange French engineering reason why it would be the opposite...

Its not the Alcons, its the pads!! The dust is'nt build up, its just from one outing. If its raining the dust and moisture bake onto the wheels when I park up with the heat from the brakes. Will give the fresh wheels a seal before hand this time and see if it makes any difference.

Thanks, yes this is what I thought. Just squeeze some into the hard to reach corners (F1's) and leave for a while. I know I sound like I'm exaggerating with my brake dust but its mega hard and doesn't come off with a brush and normal iron-x, I had to end up scratching it off with a finger-nail...

No unfortunately its definitely dust. I have Alcon 4-pots with PF07 pads, stops like hitting a brick-wall but unfortunately creates loads of dust and if its raining it bakes on like concrete - literally!!

Thanks, I guessed that's what it would be used for. I keep finding little spots of baked-on brake dust despite having given them a really good clean with the spray. I even bought a detailing brush but the spray just doesn't dissolve the baked-on (after a track-day in the wet) dust, will give...

Has anyone used the paste? I've used the spray and it works really well but there are the odd few places in corners that without literally scratching the pad dust off with my fingernail I cant get it off. Am hoping the paste would do the trick?

Thanks James, good site!! - think a couple of 'Standard relay base with fixing hole & terms' will do for me.

James, have you made your own relay board then, or bought one off the shelf, or just modified the OEM board?

As above, Bimarco fabric is stuck to the seat, unlike others which have a removable cover.

It would work and would save you the cost of one of the timed relays I suppose. Although for the sake of the cost of an additional timed relay it would be a lot 'tidier'!

No worries, they're ordered now and will be piece of mind having a timed relay I suppose. I searched the net using my 'old' relay part numbers to see if any were timed because I assumed the rear window relay one would be but none appear to be. Perhaps the UCH does the timing?? Have you made...

Hi James. That was myoriginal idea but you advised to fit a momentary switch and a timed relay.....