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Looking good mate, welcome back to the n/a club. Mod plans (you know you will)? :smile:

Maybe get it into Carl to re-time it if unknown who carried out the work and get booked into EFI

Could secure a trolley jack underneath and try and pull it out a cm or so to get the key in, not the safest way I know...

Cannot wait to pick this up tomorrow, big thanks to Carl.:up: Engine spec: 197 cams EFI custom map Fatty induction Scorpion RS192 with decat

As mentioned above with AWD you need to go in hot and as soon as it starts to understeer lift off which pulls the nose it and then its point and squirt on the exit. Not the easiest to drive on the limit.

You couldn't pay me to commute in a 1*2. Agree with everything the OP has written TBH. I remember picking mine up and was horrified just how bad the drive was, it was fun don't get me wrong but it was soooooo tiring! I think it depends what you have been used to as well, I was driving a BMW i3...

Mazda 3 MPS....Look better, much quicker, more toys, reliable if serviced properly, decent MPG, low insurance, highly tuneable and are priced ridiculously for what you get. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201711071041497?postcode=wa94hd&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly...

That was me last week, such a sorry state of affairs being dragged about by those AA vans. I looked like a right tool as well with a shirt and tie on harnessed into a caged Clio in rush hour 😊

Ahh get you mate, lol. Think AST supply their coilovers for the 1*2 always with the rear springs stiffer as I have the road spec springs as well which are 3kg front and 5kg rear.

I thought you had 10kg front/11kg rear (550lb/600lb)?

Harder at the front yeah?

Car felt great at Aintree in the wet with the current spring rates, i just softened the damping to 4 clicks from soft rear and 3 from soft on the front and detached the arb. It felt very neutral through the corners. Also managed to match my personal best lap time set on OE dampers and lowering...

Epic Dutch taxi. More of these now in Amsterdam than bikes, lol. I'm holding out for the Tesla 3.

Q plate maybe?

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/auxiliary-fluids/brake-fluid/?524770270&&cc5_179 Use code SAVE33 and it comes in at £15.74 which is probably half the price of a 1L of RBF. Oh and on the bleeding just get a silicone hose around 600mm and a jam jar...

Hope you've got deep pockets for a dedicated track BM, but I'm with you on RWD :up:

You'll be back in a Clio in no time, yeah they may not be as quick but they're a lot more fun!

I honestly wouldn't bother with RBF fluid as it pretty expensive and only really comes into its own at crazy temperatures on track, mine is a dedicated track car with some decent go faster bits and I've been using Euro Car Parts Pagid DOT 4 fluid and not once had an issue of fade or boiling. Its...

Just change them as normal, no need to cap anything just top up the res when getting a bit low throughout the change. Oh and I presume you mean Tarox pads? If so I wouldn't bother if its just a road car, just stick with branded OE, if a track car then the usual suspects like Ferodo, Mintex...

Haha, I can trump that. My first track day in the 182 a brand new set of Brembo OE front pads lasted all of 3 hours before they where metal on metal, ruining a new set of HC discs and getting me blacked flagged and I had no spare so day over. People say OE pads are fine for track, not in my...

I just think the rc8s will be poor on 1*2s with ABS. Bob the builder will no doubt have no ABS and probably a bias valve with more going to the rear so will make them less grabby at the front.

If wet set pressures as above 33/31 and be as smooth on steering and throttle input as possible. If you find the racing line slippery go offline on see if that helps as rubber on the racing line can be slippery when wet. Once it starts drying up reduce pressures to the above as they'll start to...

Shite, way to aggressive as they lock up far to easily. Ferodo DS1.11 is by far the best pad I've tried in every way, really strong but linear coefficient, last ages, kind on discs, low dust etc.

Yeah had them mate, also got CL5 which are 105a if i remember correctly. The 4026 is Clio sport and Pug 306 Gti6 fitment and the 8 is the compound, and think the 'a' is road legal and 'b' race so not road legal. Also i found them way to aggressive even with hot track rubber.

Seems a right faf though with rerouting brake lines and removing the beam. Suppose it could be done at the same time as beam bushes?

Yeah oversteer was the main worry, might sell the ARB and get some FK 550 springs then.:up:

Seems a bit of a grey area regarding a RARB when a 1*2 is set up on decent track spec suspension, some say it helps others say due to the stiff nature of track spec coilovers and springs it wont do much at all. Got AST's on mine with 450lb front and 600lb rear springs and just wondering peoples...

...and get rid of those federal tyres as they are more of a road tyre with a treadware of 140. Look for something under 100 like Toyo r888's or Yoko AD08R/A048's, Avon ZZR, Kumho v70a, Dunlop Direzza etc.

CL8s

Jesus I'd be over the moon with 200hp, bet mine was ruining only 160-170hp before it let go...