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Drivers side rear light cluster. Take it out, clean the connections up, put back together.
6 months later when it starts doing it again repeat.
Or just not worry about it.
Anyone know if there are any cheaper than the £50+ ones on Demon Tweaks? While my flat OMP wheel is great, its too far away and swapping for a dished wheel will be quite expensive.
Not wobbly as such, but just a bit loose in terms of the connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels. I didn't have time to get anything sorted before a track day yesterday and there was a lack in confidence in being able to precisely place the front end.
It sort of feels like...
A 'spongy' feel to the steering is really all I'm unhappy with about the Clio at the moment. I was wondering what it could have been and then this popped up on the MOT and looked a likely candidate.
Fell foul of the MOT due to this (interestingly, this is the 2nd MOT since having them fitted :S) so the plastic deflectors have gone.
Honestly no idea how well they work. My driving style trashes brakes more than any ducting will help prevent (I've calmed down recently). I'm sure it helps with...
So you'd have it done in 30 minutes then Fed ;)
Cheers for this. I'm thinking about polybushing it all so will see about getting this all done at the same time if it requires alignment and specific tools.
What does this mean in terms of fixing? Expensive? Cheap? Easy to do myself?
I don't really have any idea where I would even look to see the inner steering rack joints?
My car has developed a odd popping sound that you can hear when idling. Its like if you make a popping noise with your lips, and the frequency rises and falls with the engine speed. You can't hear it above about 1500 rpm, but its still there.
Its coming from around my front drivers side wheel...
I've always assumed its normal.
Its the sort of noise mountain bike suspension makes if you push it down.
I only hear it over speed bumps or other big drops. It doesn't do it under normal driving.
Airbag light being on is a failure as of Jan 1st 2013. I know, mine failed yesterday.
Removing the bulb is not a solution as, as people have said, it needs to illuminate and then go off.
If your car passes without a bulb, or with the airbag light on, then your MOT tester is not doing his job...
But that won't help if the next MOT tester moves the seat and tugs the wire again.
I can make it go out for free by fiddling with the wires, but its not a permanent fix. Can I bridge the wires to bypass the grey connection box?
Is there a permanent fix? My car has just failed the MOT because the tester moved the seat and now the light is on. If I'm lucky I can jiggle them and it will go off, but always seems to come back very soon.
Is there a way to fix them so they don't trigger the light? A proper fix would be...
Cheers guys. They are RC5+s to replace the DS2500s I cooked. Just thought it was a bit odd that they rattled a bit, but if that's by design then good to go!
They don't have the little spring things on like the Ferodo ones, so they have a bit of movement inside the carrier? Is this right? Or have I missed something? Halfway through changing my pads in the brief bit of sunshine we have had this year.
Yeah, I followed the bedding in instructions (all be it on the road, the instructions refer to laps), and they had a good 1000 miles of road use before I hit the track.
I didn't notice any issues at my last track day in September, but the car hasn't moved since then. Could the frost have...