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Maybe try and set the camber up by eye, I done mine by eye with camber bolts and got -2.3ns and -2.4os, lol. Regarding damping, full hard on the rear and middle setting on the front and adjust accordingly throughout the day, if wet middle setting on both and adjust accordingly.

@Niall That's good to know, i'll be going 10kg/8kg but mine is only really driven to and from track. Get some vids up of Combe

Looking good, how are you finding the 9kg/8k spring rates on the road?

Wow that brings back some memories, my mate had one, same colour and reg as well. We used to go to raves in it all over the country in the 90s, lol. We (he) ended up rolling it into a farmers field in the end, doing a full roll and landing on the passenger side, robust little things though as we...

Sound mate, we'll meet somewhere on the way then.

What offset are the current wheels? If something like 35, then maybe some 43s or higher may do the trick. I have a set of Oz F1s which are 43 and a set of Sparcos which are 35 and the Oz's definitely sit an inch or so further into the wheel arch over the Sparcos.

Sound, anyone else going from our end? We could meet at Burtonwood services or wherever.

Defo mate, you leaving Friday evening then?

Will be booking this on the 14th of July (Payday) if there's track time left, hopefully booking in both AM & PM track sessions and heading over Friday night to set-up camp for the weekend.:up:

Modifications add feck all in my experience, really nice motor but £14k for a Golf on a 12 year old platform is a bit much. You can get a tidy MK6 R for that money.

I've still got the original SNES, will have to pull it out the loft.

Budget worn tyres & budget discs and pads, will equal no fun as they'll burn in the dry and be dangerous in the wet. Get yourself a set of track orientated Road tyres, Nankang, Ferdral, Toyo etc... I get all mine from ebay part worn, just make sure they're not to old (7+ years), lol.

Budget pads will struggle around Cadwell IMO, when are you doing the track day? I recommend these Mintex M1155, but they take around 3 weeks to deliver...

Yep 172 cup is the most track orientated out the box.

MSV T&C's... Cars using slick tyres must have an MSA/FIM approved roll cage.

You'll be fine with what you have, drive shafts take more stress as do the other components you've mentioned but IMO not worth the extra cash in uprating drive shafts, just make sure they're fairly fresh, if not have spares on hand maybe. I'll be running slicks once I get coilovers.

No not yet for me, going to be next year now. I'll be going 9kg/8kg maybe even 10kg/8kg....

Was it mapped or standard? In standard guise it's less likely to happen as the utter s**t torque limiters in 1st-3rd help prevent it, different in the 6 I had thought as no limiters as standard due to being awd. Know a few guys who's made the mistake and paid the price.

Only catastrophic engine failure, lol! It's the mixture of bad timing, stretched chain and weak rods. It's very preventable though, keep it maintained and don't be a tard at low revs in high gears and you're good.

Seen your vids on YouTube, goes well and looks ace. Good decision on the coilovers as well before power. What camber are you running? I'm contemplating another mps myself as a full on track car, the weight you could shift would make a massive difference, on the Mazdaspeed forum people have got...

Magneti Marelli injectors is what you want, I got them from ECP.

Pull each injector one by one, and when you find one that doesn't make any difference in how its running that's the dodgy one, takes about 30 minutes. Just spray the fuel rail guard bolts the day before as they can snap then its a real c*nt of a job.

I'd love to do one, and when the time comes to purchase a hot rwd motor this would be the first mod :smile:

I've used Kumho KU39 on my type R and they where very good for the money.

If PS3s are doing that forget about rainsport 3s. Bridgestone potenzas re040/050 have a stiff sidewall so will reduce the above wear, and if you can get run flats in your size even better....

MY old lardy 6 MPS (1700kg) had cracking brakes and they where single pot. Maybe its a Renault thing as I find the Clio's braking system shocking as well. That f20 118d I had recently shown me what decent brakes where even in OE spec, much better than 4 pots with DS3000 pads on the Clio.

I've got a working 182 master cylinder with attached res if you're interested, pm me.

No traction control, but stability control.

Pad on PS4 for me.