Search results

To be honest . If you look about for a good second hand cat , have a look inside and check the monolith cell , if it's not loose of blocked it should be a good to go 2nd hand option . Look up Renparts on eBay .

Is it a genuine OE replacement cat or a Micky mouse one ? Normally the Micky mouse cats are not efficient . I'd be looking for a good 2nd hand OE cat and go from there. The sensors should be ok .

Did my O/S inner Only needed the one . If it's the N/S your doing , might be cheaper to get a second hand "good" shaft , but would you know it's a good'n. Might just be worth buying the gaitor's and doing them. Part number Genuine OE part. I wouldn't use anything else .

Nice update , shame the car is 75miles odd away . It'll all come together soon enough . Now the sun is out - full steam ahead i suspect .

Id say it's up to you if you wanted to fit a 6pk. The only reason it would jump is if it was off line . Never heard of a belt jumping through normal operation . 5pk is the norm to fit . Good question

Ok - now it's clearer , we know what your after. I'm pretty sure that set up was not only GTX R5. I'm guessing other R5 , 9 , 11 would be very similar if not the same . IE the metal plate that bolts to the block .

Can you remember what way you put it down the spindle . If you've put it wrong then the lowest washer will deff wear . Have a look under the mount and see .

I think that piece goes metal side down the stud . Doesn't it stop half way down the stud then the mount on top. I can see a chamfer on the metal side of that washer . That'll deff sit on the stud half way down and stop there.

This order

I did remove the ECU bracket . Mine hasn't the tamperproof lock fitted so it was easy to remove the loom ECU connector. If yours is still fitted , you may just be able to push it to the side and remove the spider that way. I'm presuming you don't need to remove the spider to actually fit the...

Mk1 Clio 1.8 engine mount isn't the same as a 1.7 R5 front o/s mount . What exactly are you after to make it clear to others fella.

I removed the spider because I wanted to check the bolt was tight before I put it back .

Pics for your pleasure [emoji6]

I went top . Just seems trying to be different with wheels doesn't work when you want weight savings for track as there isn't much out there that's lite and cheap.

I've heard various things about not starting , could be one of many . Best thing is to get the Renault Clip diag tool on it after you've located the port . Also check the relays out in the engine bay for corrosion and just being shitty contacts in general. It could just be a coded key gone down...

This lump at the bottom

I've seen plenty of them fitted up side down so it must be ok

Yes lol , I run a uni cycle [emoji2]

Top one is a R18 Fuego alloy Middle one is a Ph1 R25 V6 alloy Last one is a Ph1 R21 turbo alloy . Well done for those who got it right . [emoji106]

Very nice subtle OE changes / looks fab . Very nice indeed .

Renault . The gearbox will need to be stripped to have it fitted.

After a definite answer guys and gals. I was asked if the Ph1 172 exhaust would fit the Ph2. I am aware that the cats are different , but don't they measure up to the same position so that the systems are the same length.

You mean tell it it's a CTN not a CTP or visa versa ?

Can I take the gauge wire and link it in the the Omex loom for it to send the same signal ?

I run -2.5 deg up front with 20mm spacers and same at the rear with 10mm PMS block spacers . Behaves perfectly fine on track on F1s. Saying that I also run Roll centre kit and it turns in epic . I'm leaving it at that . I now have a set of ET40 Pro 1.2s so I now have 16mm spacers up front and...

Thanks to @Mash for the link my studs and nuts turned up today.

Fitting the Ph1 loom is the best option as Mark has said , I know the Ph2 loom doesn't have the idle valve wiring , and I think the Ph2 ECU wouldn't have the pins for the ICV also . I have a pin out for a 182 but not a 172 cup but both are FLY BY wire Throttle. I think you will need the Ph1...

The fuel cut , cuts the live circuit from the relay to the pump. If there isn't any power at the pin of the fuel cut sensor , then trace it back to the relay which is in the fuse box next to the battery . Look for the same colour wire from the relay that's the same colour as the fuel cut...

No fuel when cranking could be all sorts of things . Bridge the wire and see what happens is the same as pushing it in .

Washer deff goes on top