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Have you checked for spark at the plugs yet ?

There are bearings in the column at the top and bottom , Renault do not list them so new column . But I do recall you can still buy R5 column bushes and make them fit in place as the column shaft internal and external diameter are the same. I only know because I have done this a long time ago.

My link above are for the Eibach ones @Timmsy . Best ones by far well worth the money .

These are the ones you want . No messing about with 8 bolts , those 4 behind the wheel crap. http://www.trackstyle.co.uk/20mm---eibach-pro-hubcentric-wheel-spacers-renault-clio-b-0998-system2-23084-p.asp System 2 NOT system 7 down the page on website

Money wasted if you had the Rs2 and a low boost kit. A £1k manifold against a £100 or so matched or standard inlet manifold that the boost would have no trouble with . Spend the saved money on other bits imo.

Really looking forward to getting mine Mapped . I fitted mine last week and have only tickled the throttle on its first outing as the map needs re-doing. I have 438's fitted so I should see some good more oomph out of it [emoji2]

@Ash-b-84 has or had a set on his 182

If you can grab a few pics that would be awesome . So much love for the old skool fords . I heard recently a Escort cosworth was priced at £50k [emoji33]. I'll be attending the 27th Feb @bedford , will be good to meet you .

Very nice , such an iconic motor now . Hard to come by a decent one without a hefty price tag. Yes , back in the day me and my mates had Mk1 and Mk2 escorts with janspeed exhaust and twin 40 carburettors ect . Jesus if I'd known how much they are worth now back then I'd have kept it stored...

This is an RS2. Inlet Manifold

Hello , I spy a 4 door Mk2 in the background . What that having done ? A restoration job ?

[emoji852]

Pop the oil cap off , put it in 3rd gear , and rock the motor back and forth and you should see the cams turn . It the cam don't move - you have engine trouble .

Try not to get to hooked up on wire colours as the diagram I supplied is a generic one and not model specific . I'd say measure the 12 volt inputs and flashing circuits and label them. Go that route not colours .

So long as you have some sort of paperwork showing terminals with the new switch - it should be straight forward.

Ok Pin 1 is 12v Pin 2 is power from direction indicator stalk so that's an input Pin 5 & 8 is earth Pin 3 feeds all the lamps so that's flasher output Pin 4 is also flasher output. Pin 6 comes from UCH poss power Pin 7 empty

Liquid metal is the sophisticated stuff [emoji6] . Not sure if it will affect weight in any way though . IE a s**t load of weights to counteract

Nothing a bit of sophistication & filler won't sort out lol

When you get a chance - take a pic of the pins on the switch . I take it your going for the switch in the link above ?

I'm going for silver 1.2s I recon Looks spot on @Mash.

Hope this helps

I like it also

Why don't you just power up the wiper motor from 12v not from the UCH . What pin in the motor looses its fuse power. ? Have you disconnected the wiper motor connector and then does it still blow the fuse ?

Where have you drilled ? On the car or boot lid ?

This boils my piss when geometry company's don't know what they are doing . Imo if they were to centralise the rack position assuming it's off because they are complaining they can't get enough toe , tell them to move it across the rack from one side to the other . It's not difficult . What...

The only way you will even out the castor settings is to use AST top mounts from memory . Unless you do the ballpoint move it forward modification which was done by Simon "chip" a while back .

I've ordered aero catches .

The Knock sensor has two pins in the connector

Get down the scrap yard and cut a connector off a loom . And yes just solder it . Nice and simple .

Bloody predictive text lol