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SILVERSTONE RACE 2 VID https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBhkhYnGVjw&list=UUIOvm85alEc37KRJuq2F-1A

SILVERSTONE RACE 1 VID https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnGQ4ZQgwjA&feature=youtu.be

RACE REPORT SILVERSTONE NATIONAL AUGUST 2014-08-10 TRICOLORE TROPHY PRE RACE PREP Popped the car in to Mark Fish to get the car corner weighted prior to the Silverstone race at the weekend, the car was weighed and checked, it appeared my corners weight was off massively, so re balanced...

Well done Adam, great vid. Yep those 106's are pesky

Cup seats are around 18.5 kg each Cup back bench (lower and upper) is 14kg (for reference)

Ha briliant, best race of the season. The video footage looks great too. Enjoy your hols mate

Re: Titanium Clio182 Nice one looking good. Those are good spacers, had them on the RS4. What coilovers you going for?

Re: Titanium Clio182 Front set up will be great on track

Re: Titanium Clio182 Its not unusual for the rears to point in different directions. My rear right is 0.5 toe in and rear left is 2mm toe out.. Need to get some shims in there... The rear beam does flex and sometimes not even straight when leaving the factory. In some cases the stub axles can...

I'll eat my socks if you have them by end of the week lol

Re: Titanium Clio182 Yea it can happen to the studs however it will have an impact on the brake discs and can work those lose too. Esp with serious brake judder

Awesome, so your bolts will arrive in 2017 ;)

Yep. Thats good who did you go through Curtis?

Re: Titanium Clio182 Mate, I'v seen it happen to experienced drivers as well, things happen. Another cause of bolts working loose can be brake judder (causing vibration) and debris on the mating faces of the hub and inside of wheel mating surface, so always check those too when putting wheels...

Had a double take at a Caged 172 Cup ( with other track bits bolted on., parked outside Pets at Home in Aylesford, Kent at the weekend (Saturday). Looking good

Re: Titanium Clio182 Coming along nicely mate, shame about the wheel bolts coming lose, however that's not the first time i have seen that and prob wont be the last either. Always check wheel bolts before and after every session, esp when wheels have cooled down, same goes for tyre pressures...

Top hole for camber, leave as it is and use oem bolts, bottom hole should have the cam washer in it, hole up for 172 cup, hole down for 182 (64mm struts?). Use oem bolts, but they will be at limit of the nylon nut as discussed.

No, im sure that bottom washer is so these can be interchangeable between the 182 struts that have the wider holes. Just unscrew the washer, turn it around and hey presto...they are def not for camber.

5.5mm allen key. Have fun removing the rears when its time to do rear discs... Blow torch those f*****s out. Word of warning, dont tap them with a hammer as they are made from soft steel (so they dont shatter when using impact wrenches) as this can deform the ends and you will never get them...

Just a little bit more than "hand tight" lol bit of common sense really, whats the lowest it goes? You are using the loctite right?

It can be but only around -1.5deg or there abouts. Its used to gain "extra" camber combined with the slots. Most use the top mounts to gain extra positive castor.

Jack the car up and move the road wheel from the 9'oclock to 3'clock position, if theres movement its the tie rods, 12'clock to 6'clock movement would indicate bearings. If its knocking I would check your top mounts.

I have checked my ASTs (II) and the captive nut sits UNDER the bracket, so not sure why yours is on the top. Someones is wrong.... In regards to the way the hub bolts go, the nut goes towards the rear, this is so when you use undo them (breaker bar), the tool does not interfere with the brake...

Great project mate, looking good

All a mad rush hey Pete, but no doubt be worth it.

78motorsport My build and racing thread antics

Just realised my other half of my post hadnt posted (bloody tapatalk) I mentioned, about putting washers on the underside of the bolts that go in the wheel arch, this will stop the bolt heads pulling through or tearing the sheet metal and allow you to tighten up the bolts. I haven't done it...

Also worth putting some rust inhibiter around the drill holes as well. You're welcome

Length of the bolts? Think the outer 2 was 20mm and the inner one was 25mm, both M8s

Middle bolt needs to be longer as the strut body slops downwards and away from the mounting plate of the strut. Make sure you put some sealant on the arch side of bolts and have nuts facing upwards, bit tricky, would advise someone else holding the bolt with a spanner while you use both hands...