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low speed would be ok probably because the pull is less noticiaable. Have you bedding the brakes in Did the caliper sliders work? Did you bleed the brakes?

Only when after some time when they have both absorbed water the 4 will be better since it will still be usable the 5.1 won't

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?617972-Anyone-had-issues-with-uprated-brake-fluid-For-the-track-day-and-fast-road-users.&highlight=5.1+brake+fluid Post 5 Or have a read here http://web6.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1013747&nmt=Which brake fluid is best, 4 or 5.1...

4 Isn't better straight out the bottle only after a short time 5.1 will absort water quick so becomes worse than 4 at the same age. 5.1 is race car only.

Ive got the manual drop me your email address as a PM I'll try remember to look tomorrow.

Yep all brake fluid does it just depends how bad/quickly it absorbes it. have a read here http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml

5.1 is hydroscopic ie absorber water don't use it unless you fully bleed your brakes all the time race cars use it but the fluid never stays in them long. 5.1 isn't that much better than 4 and give it any time in use and 4 is better.

Setting them up can be problems to ensure they good linkages etc What ECU are you going to use when you start saying stand alone etc etc etc then the saving using bike bodies can sometimes be small in the grand budget and for the hastle not worth it

If you think were bored of sick newbies asking the same questions do you think that if there always asked then we always give the same answers so a quick search would revel the answer qucikly? Anyway as regards the seat you can remove some little riuber in the search if you become a member...

Dealers / manurfacturers have to prove the mod is resonsible for the failure. ie 200hp of N20 in the engine and your box breaks then can say well its not designed to take that much extra load and none would question it. I wouldn't worry much though most dealers are ok.

Im guessing he just likes the shapes etc after all why have a Boxter or a Prowler

His collection seems quite different realy he has a Boxter but no lines or 911's and ferraris which most garages would contain. If you look at what some other arabs have as collections they are indulgencies his seems quite mild. I wonder if he has a petrol station for them though?

Sports KA? Well done one thing is I gueess he won't have problem with rusting wisbones on it. Shame that tristar won't be going anyway though I'd imagine.

Did he have a 182 Trophy?

A 1.6 of the same age etc will eyp no need to change mounts just got to remember to get the car remapped or swop a blank ecu over or swop all the ECU/UCH etc. A 2.0 Yep can be done done many times before in the Uk I wouldn't bothere recomending as a proper 2.0 can be bought for less.than the...

Check the bulbs in the unit need to take the dash top off and check, bulbs are only cheap

When you say it wasnt starting this morning how did it "just ticking over" did it tick over but not rev? Check you have fuel and a spark? Give the car a proper bump start then see what happens if you have fuel spark and a bump start it should start

Your power assisted stearing is all electric it only knows how fast the car goes by the abs system. The speed etc depends on the assist it give ie heavy/light stearing. Since the abs ring is slipping then the abs things that wheel is skidding hence the abs issue. Also the speedo keeps giving...

Its on the front of the block about half way accross the engine and down below the intake manifold pipes.

The second number in the oil is its viscosity at a set temp. On track your oil gets hotter than normal so you need oil which is the same viscoity as normal running. So for going for oil which is thicker at a normal temp when its being used at higher temsp on track its as viscious as the 40 oil...

Ive used them didn't like them though

Stock spec is fine for older milage As for stress of track the issue is the engine get very hot and oil temps get high so you nee decient spec oil and if its track use only a 50 weight oil not the 40

Check the regular bits ball joints top mount track ros end etc

It was a spec range so you could get 1.2 (16V only) 1.4 and 1.6 and dci's in 65/80 and 100 hp spec

ABS ring is most likly broken new ones arn't that expensive or difficult to fit

This is a common problem do a sear4ch its dicuseed a lot there a guide somehwere on fixing it I think

Theres a FAQ and buyers guide if you do a search

Personaly I'd stick with stock but none listens they only agree later Change the dogbone mount (under the car easy to do though) and the movement in the gear leaver will stop/reduce.

Yep thats the riule but anything over hald that thay would have looked at. Some engine do and some don't use any its the way it is.

Your beleeding the fluid anyway so many would say yes. They do help with the firming of the pad as they don't give as much but the brakes are no better with them. Personaly I wouldn't but I'm cheap. If you get the cheap its a not bad