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ali will travel any distance for a bit of willy or mcfly.

They wont pink in std trim unless there are serious ECU problems, which is higly unlikely. The knock sensor will actively r****d ignition to prevent pinking if it even gets close to a frequency that pinking emits. Even if the sensor doesnt work, the ecu will notice this an add a baseline...

lol, no worries. But remember, a uniform coverage of carbon is required to sustain an efficient burn.

chamber cleaner? It takes me a wire brush on a die grinder to really clean them when they are off, or some seriously aggresive carbon digesting enzymes.......some spray in a can wont do the trick really. And it'll be back to exactly the same condition in 2 mins.

what he said i said ^^

light on the issue? It a Map sensor, offside of the manifold, stuck right in the end of the plenum. Rectangle shaped.

If only they 'just' failed.......problem is they take out most of the engine with them. Infact, in the last 2-3 months i have seen a stupid amount of cam failures from 3 UK companies in a multitude of different engines......fantastic stuff for the UK industry eh.

to the rear steering arms......;)

man your rear arch looks massively bulbous!

damn i want a van like that.

were sorted then stan.

Depends on quality of install and component choice. £2400 ish to £4500 for grade A stuff.

no kick = smoother torque curve, you'll just have to check if its a gain or a loss on the area under the curve ;)

i'm a yokoholic.........cheap, grip like buggery. And teach you how to drive a hero in the wet...lol

286 deg cams are just far too wild for a stock type injection system, you will have to introduce an air bleed into the inlet manifold to hold an idle at about 1000-1100rpm. peak lift of 11.45mm has no effect on whether you need to relieve the pistons, but the lift at tdc and more importantly...

paradas are not half as bad as people are making out in the wet. They wont be ice lolly wheels in the wet or on emergency stops.

decidedly average. Replaced my sports touring dunlop SP sport 3000's with them on a reccomendation, and they were cheap. They have a firmer sidewall, but they grip anywhere near aswell and make my once oversteering hero of a wagon into an understeering barge. I wont be using them...

nobody said ARP was crap, i use ARP alot, but were simply talking of higher compressive forces on a rod assembly leading to rob bolt failure. The only reason i can see is not directly because of combustion forces, but from the accelerative jerk forces from the next firering cylinder...

you wont be able to get that cam to idle on a stock ecu if your planning to run it with the proposed lift @TDC. why did you choose that spec cam?

minor

butre, the problem is your applying your understanding of metals and forces in the wrong way. The basics of what you say are not incorrect in the sense of the characteristics of metals and applied forces. However they have no true relavence to the subject we are speaking. I think the...

same.

oi! Craig was the one who spelt obligation! lol

not done in a clio though....lol...cant be that proud.

i'm just saying that incorrectly fitted or manufactured/modified components can result in a car that performs worse than stock IF incorrectly fitted/setup/tuned. put it this way.......just because you buy some performance cams, doesnt mean that by slapping them in you will gain...

how what?

is the failing a trigger signal strength/reliability or position? Have you had a timing gun on it? Should be 60-2, and as long as you get it in the region, and have it running non advanced at 10 deg, you can dial it in on the timing gun.

using the stock tdc sensor pickup and position?

what ecu?

saying that, driving normally i get about 18-20, and if i do granny driving and no faster than 60mph period, then i have hit 27mpg.