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Do you have the cylinder batches the correct way round?
Is your trigger pattern correct?
Does the ECU require a certain cranking speed before it will provide a spark/injection?
cant tell anything from those pics, you will need a HIGH resolution pic of the ceramic/electrode/groundstrap.......i.e all the bits at the end of the threaded section, ignore the other parts.
normal fliud is dot 4.
I dont ever feel a marked better 'feel' because stock brake lines now are wire supported internally anyway. But they will last longer and wont fail an MOT from splitting.
;).....tis the way!
i'll feel like they go 'off' by the 7th-9th pass, but thats normal. They wont feel normal again until they are completely cool and rested overnight in most cases.
All modern cars are set to run a stoichiometric AFR value of 14.7:1, where a complete burn of fuel and O2 occurs, at lower rpms and low load positions. Well, they did, modern cars are now running slightly leaner circa 15.5 for better economy and emissions, and they are running 'lean' upto quite...
not really as your never testing the AFR under load, which is where i counts.
IN closed loop config, your engine will automcatically be adjusting the AFR to that of 14.7
they had several revisions.
Earliest ones were twin chamber unrestrictive types, but as they failed they were replaced under warrenty with crappy single element cats.
You should see some very usefull gains.
With the chipwizards remap, i'd expect you to be hovvering around the 180+ region.
Just for future ref, the piper competition cambelt is a stock gates item.
lol, ironically, the only thing they did work on were old carbed cars. But back then it wasnt made by this company, i think it was OE fitment on some cars.