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id rather change the DS mate!!!!

I dont get it. All this GrpN stuff. If you read the regs for GrpN cars then engines especially are std....cams a no no so i dont see how they could be anything but std cams if they are grpN. The GrpN ECU for that reason isnt expecting a wild cam.

Nah, dont bother...waste of mooolah.

demon tweeks. If you got the blue one, page 69, if its the red one page 259.

If you use he correct diameter steel tube and rabficate an elbow to go over the TB, located the filter somewhere up front like behind the bumper of in the wheel arch etc etc etc.

Development costs? What development costs..... Go for it...make your own, simple is as simple does.

Appreciate that Jonesy!!! http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/otn/blobs/boldyellow.gif Caught me at the right time in the right mood so consider 20% off any work you get done from me at my new company.

Oh yea deffo.....but not on a std engine, thats all i meant.

Excellent, then drive the car to a RR under closed loop running all the way then get it check on the RR, the exhaust gas analysis i mean. I wouldnt go hooning about since supercharger and turbo compressor maps are totally different.

Does it have a lambda sensor?

Righto. Test for fuel after a few turns by looking at the plug tips for wetness, then look for a spark by placking a hooked up splug onto the engine lifting hook.

Yup....cant see why it should ever idle at 1300rpm even if its a characteristic of the ECU.

Wouldnt bother paying for Mobil, it again is a second tier item. Any 10w40 ish oil from total, elf,motul, redline or similar is more than fine. And i wouldnt even bother with a fully synth oil if you change it reguarly.

Id rather have the Z than the V.

Erm, its f**king light, and the steel one aint.

Why idle your car for a minute?

Get a multimeter on the alternator and the batt. Could be as easy as a corroded Neg termal on the batt to the alt.

The coil has 2inputs and outputs for pairing of cylinders on a wasted spark basis. They put a resistor on where and why!?

If you want the original supple feel, new std shocks, springs, ARB and wishbone bushes.

Does it turn over, splutter and catch but not start? Or just sits there doing nothing?

why should it idle at 1300 rpm?

Hmmmmm.....personally i wouldnt, but only because there is alot of other cars out there for the same money. But yes, it would be a nice step.

The MK1 in std trim is, dare i say it to no offence of curent owners, horrid. I had the option of a V6 or 172 everyday working at renault. And i took the 172 everyday. The V6s rear suspension is what causes its on the limit problems with spinning as its basically a laguna V6 driven into...

The MK1 is not worth thinking about, takes too much time and money to sort the design flaws in the suspension. MK2 is far better.

Lovely....got and pic of the kit as it will let me visualize the setup and routing and problems. Firstly i need to know what management your running as he std MK1 gti runs a metering head with a metering arm dependant on airflow and i know TT kits, especially the old ones which utilize the OE...

its not worth it on a std engine. Not for the hassle of chipping it again.

Its a little hard to change yes. You should be fine driving it unless the oil warning light comes on.

Were not still stuck on this are we.

Really, you dont need to be so worried or manufacturer reccomendation specific. If you wanted my opinion, the best and most protective oils arent even API approved due to the massive amounts of EPAs preset, which are bad for cats and EURO emissions laws. If your not planning to run an oil...