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Get some lovely Elf competiton ST 10w40 or 15w50 from Renault....its priced great.

Youve read through the post right? You need the SPI injection throttle body off the 1.8 SPI lag. SPI throttle bodies look the same as the one on yours with the constant injector aiming at the throttle plate, hence single point...only 1 injector. Throttle bodies are where each inlet tract is...

From cold thats bad..... Check with an external pressure checker and if its still close, id say its the pump, not the rings.

Dont bother with the expensive insulated type, air isnt in there for long enough.

If you got the performance and tuning blue one go to page 69, if you got the motorsports red one go to page 259. Thats the stuff.

Yup.... The gaps do vary from next to nothing, to sometimes 2cm on some cars. See if they can tighten up a tad, but if they arent knocking dont worry. They tilt when you turn as its a Macphereson setup and castor is introduced by tilting the strut.....its also why you get positive camber...

yup....i only get 7k

Why, what have they been trying? Have they been connecting it to the coilpack direct, since its a 2 stage operating system.

Why should they not? 50mm,53mm, 60mm, 63mm....its all the same car or bike. They do sound awesome...

This is at normal running temp right?

Just check the wheels for play then u can be sure.

So long as you dont get it on the friction material. But if you can, get some lithium grease on it.

Hang on....now it looks like i asked a question!! Cant find anything about a multi organ.....on their sites. All of those will just require you splicing into the signals from sensors. And the auto timer...for a turbo?

got one?

If the screws are out and not holding it on at all you can hit it with a lump hammer hard, if your worried...put a block of woob between the hammer and disc.

I would of thought the mech and cable first. If you can single it down to the release fork then its probably the pivot, not the bearing.

Got demon Tweeks catalouge?

Hmm, pretty small. Id get some nice wire supported ducting form DT and jublee it to the front, then direct it to the front grille and put a radius trumpet on the end.

Sorry.... its damn annoying though....... You can do a basic check with disc thickness and pad thickness to see if either need replacing, then check your brake fluid..bleed it if you want.

What size is that entry to the filter?

nope Squeels are made by teh pad vibrating in its housing because the leading edge is touching the disc first...you can try chamfer it.

GIRLING!!!!!!

its BRAKES!!!!!

dont worry about over heating the disc.

it might squeel, but ive installed pads without grease all the time.

nothing really......

Put a prybar under the hum and see if you can lift it....if it has any movement its out. They are easy to replace and you dont need the ARB off. But get your tracking done after.

Yea, charlie is awesome. You can cutout the bumper, he cna do that too...a small cutout for the pipe to stick out rather than hang below....

What have you got, a closed IK? If so i dont see a problem.....just use large diameter ducting to the front of the car (not those tiny front bumper ducts. Relocating the filter isnt worth the work and you increase the length of the intake piping.

Most bike cans have a kink in it so that the exit points back, not straight up when mounted on a bike. I used the link to point left and i think its awesome. Its only a small exit so looks subtle, i dont like soddingly big exits. Get a decat if you want as you can always swap it or sell it on.