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See, this is what happens when you buy a non cup chassis model. There is so much difference its unreal.

I don't doubt but f**k me it looks terrible.

Thats what it is though, 7700110500 for a new one couple of quid.

I've only seen the wheels sit that far forwards in the arches when the car/subframe/wishbone is bent. Thats nowhere near central (ish).

I would personally.

Replace the whole set ensure they are torqued correctly. 32nm.

It is not as much fun as the Megane was. Steering is as everybody complains about over weighted and rather numb, active self center is a nice feature though. Similar mpg to the Megane (if that bothers you) I love the 2.0 TFSi engine + K04, really doesn't behave how I though it would. 4wd is...

The prices are a few years old would hope they haven't changed that much.

You can get away with the laser ones but you do need to be careful with them and be aware of their tendancy to twist, for the small savings over the Renault ones though they aren't worth it imo. TDC/Crank Pin - 0000105400 - £8.98 Extra Longer Cog + Spacers + Nut - 0000150901 - £16.56 Camshaft...

Inner skin is surprisingly rusty.

They look sexy but the impracticality would make it a no from me. I quite like the standard wheels tbf.

Pedal kick purely points to the abs operating, whether this is geniune or in error is another question. Needs the abs code reading with clip and you'll have more of an idea. Intermittent ABS light could be the usual pedal switch adjustment.

£150 for a full set front and rear. Sportlines if you want a drop too or Prokit to keep standard height (well 9/10ths of it)

No way to disable it without disabling the EBD too.

That'll be usable.

I certainly wouldn't be, its useful for much more than just cooling down in hot weather. I was going to say why compromise when there are a mass of non rs model (and rs ones come to think of it) to choose from, I wouldn't let it being pre modded sway myself either.

172 headlights and the drivers wing is a very different shade to the door too.

Get some decent tyres.

A/C was a option, mad to even consider one without it. Also being a buildabong the seats will most likely be water stained to high heaven.

Can't be done on a 1*2 alarm unless you have one of the very last ones made (ie 55 plate) where they were using the later alarm fitted to the 197, battery on/off quickly to set it.

You don't shear the balljoint bolts without a lot of force, I may be wrong but from experience see if everything is still in the same place and aligns correctly after replacing. I bent a wishbone with a glancing blow and it twisted the subframe too.

That's done more damage than meets the eye.

I'm assuming this is the input shaft bearing/seal? You can get them i've changed one before, you have to split the box to do it though. Dialogys isn't overly clear so i'm not going to post any part numbers because it could be anyone of 3 from the drawings.

Started with a 1.2 Dynamique+ in Boreal, nothing special there didn't change anything really. Next was a 1.6 Dynamique Then a Monaco 172 Followed by a Megane 225 Now i've taken a (temporary) leave from RS ownership.

Camlock tools work great.

Quite possibly that as it'll think somethings wrong when you are traveling straight and the wheel sensor is reading 25degrees. Then again possibly not, only one way to find out without clip to check its reading correctly.

Mine was great but I had the extra H100 audio processor and amped full range so can't really compare. The auto setup mic did wonders.

Not bad, not as good as the new live stuff but still useful.

Thats probably dropped a valve, the plug is the effect not the cause. Will have smashed everything to buggery hence the coolant loss.

If its still legible then its on the front of the block to the right of the oil filter. You may well struggle to read it as it isn't punched into the metal very heavily.