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I aassume there are no negatives to doing that?

What's the best product to prime metal with light surface rust? I need to prime my new caged shell and the bare metal has some light surface rust, do I need to sand it down etc?

I start with about 23 in the fronts and 27 in the rears then adjust to 30 front and rear ( moulded rally slicks)

Not sure yet, I think it's going to be a total new box. Its just strange that the box is fully functional and has ejected something, assuming that iv not just smashed the casing up somehow. I'm going to hopefully get it out either this weekend or next

Another update: The car has competed at Abingdon car-nival stages and put in some good stage times. The springs were way too soft which is something I had been thinking for a while. As a result I upped the spring rates to 375lb fronts and 500lb rears. Soooo Last weekend was the patriot...

I dont even know if I did drop anything in there I just know I dropped a nut But the cap was off with a funnel in the tank and I couldn't find the nut afterwards

If I dropped say an m6 nut into the header tank would it make it into the water pump? Or are there things in the design to stop it from making its way out of the tank?

What roof scoop is that?

How soon do you need one?

That's top news! Get it designed!

48.4.1. The suspension must retain the operating principle and utilise the mounting points as provided by the vehicle manufacturer. I would suggest that its well worth asking someone about it who actually knows. Even if you keep the mounting points in the same place as mike suggests, it could...

Can you do that without falling foul of 48.4.1 in the blue book?

does it have to be twin cable? not 2x single?

Very nice - I would be very interested to know when it sells? I have one of a similar spec...

I have the same brakes - upside is the pads are silly cheap!

ET 38 is a cert.They might do you any offset you want if you ask them

not a sequential one

Did you ever get these made?

It really depends on your budget - the stuff varies from £7 for 500ml to £60+ for the Castrol stuff I used some cheap gulf racing 5.1 in the rally car and cooked it good and proper. I will be moving to come Castrol SRF

I would advise the best fluid you can afford...

What dampers are they on? I should imagine that a RR car would/should be softer than a tar car? (you guys have quite a lot of rough stuff don't you?)

But you cant buy a FARB. I am currently running 300lb fronts and 200lb rears so I am considering upping it by 50lb

P.s Yes it is a rally car, poverty tarmac spec!

Thanks for the great reply! Yes I am interested - I find it all really interesting, if you understand why something is happening you have half a chance of making it better! There is always bumpy stuff and therein lies the problem - hard enough for the fast smooth stuff and soft enough of the...

That is where it was set last time one - my plan was to go back to 2.5. Yeh I don't think the dampers are perfectly suited to what im doing but I cant afford anymore!

Its quite interesting looking at those pictures from a suspension point of view. Three degs neg on the fronts (to try to stop the scrubbing) but it has worn the insides too! so too much camber! Am I right in thinking its the softness of the suspension that is causing the tyres to roll as it...

http://www.rallygallery.com/PictureDetails.aspx?AlbumID=2014_ABR&PhotoID=abr14_74_mrol0574&FitWindow=0 http://www.rallygallery.com/PictureDetails.aspx?AlbumID=2014_ABR&PhotoID=abr14_74_mrol1663&FitWindow=0 Some pictures from the weekend at Abingdon - still scrubbing the outside of the tyres...

Good to hear no cage damage, cars held up well.

Cage ok? you looked to be flying! the cars is obviously well sorted p.s Eypnt scares the crap out of me!

:( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKkAAzxlc0Y&feature=youtu.be