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Yep it is with the rest of the car stock
Since Renault airbag systems are a bit unique no other airbags system work with them so stick with stock or loose the airbags.
If its been disconnected for a bit thougy might need the clip connecting the cars and the code entering I don't expect there using a new ECU else this issue don't exist.
4PSI isn;'t worth it the 7psi the bolt on kit offers is about the limt you can run on stock fuel and mapping etc and that needs a charger worth getting one for any turbo anyone suggestiong otherwise shouldn't IMo be listened to.
Not worth it its a project and fun more than anyhting.
ECU is...
You need someone with the Renault clip laptop to program your code in.
Dealers can get the ciode but due to what it does they don't give them out plus its pointless without a way of entering it.
The engine isn't the issue the ECU/UCH are they want to check there all correct befoe they'll...
Forget it get the 2.0 bottome end for the Megan or a whole williams engine
The williams has different cams and head work as such bigger valves so a porte valver head will give more gains than a williams head then theres cams
A rebuilt williams on its own is very quick realy.
Only 2 errors
5.5k doens't get any VVT stuff that just the cam desing etc all comming into operation.
Its not a shift up light like they seem to suggest just a warning indicatior
16V lump is the same engine just different head.
Its only dangerous if you don't use the car correctly a 20000hp car is dangerous if you don't use it correctly.
Nope well it might be but the difference won't ever show up unless you get some good scales its tiny.
Won't make 250lb I thik...
Well there two common issues you've mentioned there
The crank sensor is a common issue and does show up as the car not starting other times but make sure its not doing this when the red lights on the dash as this sins't a TDC error its the imobilier decoding ring/wiring most likly a new ones...
Being as most stock 172 run about 144hp ATW and were designed to give 169Hp gives you an idea that losses are abot 15% in the stock cars case diffeent tyres etc make a difference plus other bits. Plus depends if they have corrected etc.
Quoting such huge transmission losses is stupid IMO.
Get the tracking checked again by somoen else.
Cound be a bent arm or ball joint etc.
Bent arm messes up the tracking or might only be realy noted under load
Shock not being chnaged means they will wear quicker.
I woulnd't buy any cheap £300 suspeion dampers and spring kit if its worth doing its worth doing right IMO.
I don't like the 2's as much as the 1's but never realy tried many of the 3's I'd be tempted to try the 2's otherwise go for the ones which won the Latest evo car test F1's I think they were.
65 runs 1.15 bar boost depends on rpm but that about what it stabiliises at.
80 runs about 0.1 bar more.
65 doens't have an intercooler
The 80 have the intercooler and a bigger set of injectors plus mapped and a different gearbox that all ther differences though engine are much the same...
Don't matter putting a 130 box in your car.
Won't make any difference.
Use some good gearbox oil though. and IMo chnage the clutch etc at the same time and new cable.