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Forget spending quids, White spirit on a piece of kitchen roll or cloth is all you need followed by a polish over. Best method by far

With those mods you'll be a million miles away from needing to fit a uprated one

Been running Parada's for years as iv found them to be the best all round tyre for the Clio. Awesome dry grip, low road noise levels, decent wear rate and no worse than any other high performance tyre in the wet.

He means ignition advance not mechanical timing

What maximum boost can you put through it running the NWM head gasket Chip ? Saves a hell of a lot of hassle going down that route than pulling the bottom end apart.

Just buy a rod and forged piston kit for turbo application. Seems pointless buying a used Megane engine just for the internals which are already available off the shelf.

No chance would it make any real term difference on its own

Its not just about the gains. Any cat messing or changing the gasket and spring kit suddenly becomes a doddle with the 182

LOL @ the two photo's above. It just sums up how stupid the general public can be.

All sorted. Bought a new ICV and it cured the problem :)

Cheers for the help guys. I'm going to try the ICV route first as it seems the most logical.

You could go Laguna 8v alternator / PAS bracket,(same as Cup) new Cup alternator and matching belt all for roughly half the price

The very odd time it idles ok then as soon as i switch off and re-start its instantly screwed back up again

Thanks for the info mate. Iv got a cannibalism 172 ICV which i took apart years ago so might be worth a go knocking something up.

I thought the TB remained closed at idle ? :S

When i turn the key the idle drops straight to about 400 rpm and then basically stalls. Doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold although when the engine is hot its usually more intermittent. Car drivers 100% fine when warm although when cold rev counter needle plummets between gear changes...

Can anyone help please?????

Airbox off to gain access, unplug wiring then undo with a IIRC 22mm deep socket.

Anyone?? Tried two different coolant sensors, different coil pack and cleaned the TDC sensor and the idling problem is still there. Started to do it the odd time on warm engine starts now. Random electrical issues have disappeared so just want idea's what it could be regarding the idle.

Agree with this. Even if it was to go its not a biggy in terms of £££

I'll give the battery a check tomorrow mate cheers. Outside temps have always been + degree's since developing this problem. First time it didn't idle right from cold was straight off the back of a 2 hour drive.

No this is right on the wire of stalling not typical lumpy start up: Infact, just put the car away now and didn't bother blipping the throttle to hold the revs and it just cuts straight out everytime. Also noticed the alarm LED light by the gearstick was flashing in a very slow delayed manner :S...

Anyone?

When i turn the ignition from cold the car tries to stall iself, idles at 500 / 400 rpm then often cuts out. Revs also nose dive between gear changes till after a few minutes driving. Once the car is warmed up it starts, idles and drives fine. Its like it needs the choke pulled out on...

Remember having to replace my TB after only a couple of years of ownership due to the common spring issue but the replacement has lasted double the time and still going strong today. Wonder if the routing of the TB cable has something so do with these, putting pressure on the spring and...

If its compared to a Mini then.. yeah haha

Gay mans car is a Mini.

Why not? they work exactly the same (no restriction) but are a quieter

10mm :eek: What you protecting against, land mines? lol

Go for the Janspeed. Its silenced so it won't sound too tin pot or do your head in on a long journey