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Probably more related to the new belts than being the dephaser. If its a dephaser you would really know about it, proper heavy rattling

Basically this is the same issue but with 20mm spacers: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?645555-Hubcentric-Spacers-Help

The kit i have (h&r) you bolt the spacer to the hub and bolt the wheel to the spacer. The problem is when bolting the wheel to the spacer, the bolts are too long so hit against the hub. Needs shorter bolts by roughly 2mm. The bolts i'm using are OE ones. I'll just get some shorter bolts but...

I'll join you mate, life would a been so much easier with a Honda lol :o

The Renault scene is streets behind anyone else, this is half the problem. Its all about handling rather than power. Scoff has proved the F4r has some real potential and proved it years ago.

Yeah thats what i'm going to do but wondered if someone had the details at hand just to save a bit of time.

Standard (26mm length bolt) is too long with mine :S - Pokes out the back of the spacer

Anyone running the bolt to hub type 20mm wheel spacers - Just wondering if anyone had info to the size of bolt to use?

Going by this link its inside the top 10 quickest FWD drag cars in the UK http://www.fwddragtimes.co.uk/

Good point about the horn. Could well be related. Sure there was someone on here who was doing refurbed steering wheels but in leather. Once the standard swade one get a cuts in it the whole thing just crumbles away

Defo ditch the bump strips for body colour or standard black. Looks like it could have had a leather steering wheel retrim too which is a sign its been cared for

My carbon one gets scraped on a daily basis and apart from one crack its held up great after roughly 5 years on the car. If it was any lower than 40mm though i wouldn't bother

LOL - Are you running throttle bodies as well or just cams and high comp forged bottom end? Iv got a bottom end sitting waiting on high comps going in :o

Set of cams one minute, then its inlets, nice exhaust and before you know it you've spunked the cost of forced induction on 190 bhp (if your lucky) lol Been there got the tee shirt.

Don't fall into the trap of N/A tuning mate. Save up and go for a turbo conversion or charger. You only need another £1200 for a drive in drive out 230bhp turbo conversion. Don't get me wrong, cams will make it more responsive and they do have their place but to have £1800 quid in your pocket...

Sell yours - buy a Clio sport. Costs towards literally a few hundred quid

H&R's website shows you how to measure wheels per size of spacer needed but probably just as easy to search on here of what folk are running

LOL Remember these 182 copies were kicking about in the Ben R days of the forum, years ago now

Yeah could have just been a resprayed bumper to tidy up stone chips. I wouldn't worry tho mate she looks proper mint, total bargain as well :cool:

See where your front towing eye goes in? That front facing at both sides is colour coded on yours but from the factory they were jet black. Its a bit geeky i know lol but its a good way of knowing if someone has an original unmolested bumper. Managed to find this out because i had a genuine...

That's had a replacement bumper / re-spray or front end bump. Not that it matters, looks mint.

Mine was a pain to do as well but they do fit. Just lower the box, jack back up, wiggle about etc etc

Its worth a try anyway :)

Main earth strap in the engine bay.

I had a similar issue a couple of years back where the car wouldn't start and there was the same clicking thing plus what looked like sparking from the fuse box. Turned out to be a dodgy earth strap.

Not bothered to look but has it set any drag times yet? Old Vauxhall engines still have a lot to give. Was in my local engineer's before Christmas and there was a lad pumping big money into a old 1.6 8v gsi lump. Got to hand it to Vauxhall. Their cars might be s**t but they know how to make...

I would get the belts done and keep it. 65k its barely run in plus needing its belts doing is a bad selling time.

What about on a N/A set up Chip? Guessing the wear rates will be a slightly less than turbo due to less heat ?

If your handy with the spanners i wouldn't worry a jot about the dephaser. Just replace it when it needs doing. The mass hysteria with the dephaser is all down to the cost of a cambelt changing.

Why would a forged set up only last about 30k yet a non forged 100 ? :S