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they are ok. cheap is the main point, steel so last a max of 3 years and had one manifold fall apart after 9 months, but they do make ok power.

I was simply emphasising that if you completely screw up you do have a limiter. Im ont saying bounce off it every shift. But you should be able to shift of engine noise, helmet or no helmet. thats all.

is it actually that wet? was it sitting in water?

lol...... maybe a 100wtt red lightbulb on the interior light space? and a vibrating chair, possibly a boxing glove alert? hehehe;)

but he has a limiter if he hits it and the engine makes a pretty loud noise up that high in the RPM. And the clio has a coilpack just above the exhaust manifold.

how come???

no decent strut braces bolt onto the strut top nut, it wouldnt do anything for shell rigidity otherwise.

If the rod aint bent then check the axial joint on it.

Contact Andy from GDI Highly reccomend him.

you cant really. Ive had experience with some wheel bearings that clonked like this in the early stages during braking and moving off.

N20 would see your single largest immediate gain yes. There is a special deal i am arranging for N20 kits, find the topic and have a read! ta

The DSs even when perfect nick have a small amount fo play that you can mistake for failure of a joint. Wobble the wheel first to check bearings, you can wobble the NS DS from inside the engine compartment, but OS youll need to get under the car. Bearings can fail fast if not replaced...

Grab the wheel on 3 and 9 oclock and wobble it hard.....it shouldnt move, and any tiny amounts of play will be something in the steering system.

The heatshiled if it drops makes a dead annoying razzle noise. Just bend down and look!

only 2 other mounts. top cam cover side and the lateral mount at the rear of the engine. But describe the clonking.

Im in bristol but i can fit it this weekend if you want

The ends are exposed and a pitt/chip/crack probably just started corroding. Natural use of a spring will see it break with stress risers. But, the path it follows along the coil suggests a manufaturing fault.

If your up to 140 deg id be taking firm action now at active cooling, 120 is really the most you want to run. And mobil, i personally find crap...expesive, poor thermal capacity and burns quick.

Ditto bug, its rediculous. I god done for speeding, 60 quid and somehting like 6 points, and a few days ago, got flashed by a one of them traffic light cameras......talking to my GF again, but the light was amber when i was through and it flashed... bugger i though....more money and mroe...

had its fixed now..... thank god.

Go purchase a ion multiplex diode factor multiplier and shrink yourself, walk in and change! Im pretty sure the one off honey i shrunk the kids is on ebay.

Dont you just plug it onto one of the ignition leads from the coilpack? Or dont you have that?

I dont know no, but im quite active on the HK pug 206 forum and my father sold you your car if you bought it from jebsen.

i think they are high impedance, where the older clios are low, pico yes......and much smaller.

agree, if there is no film on the coolant.

Whadday mean no collectors......it would be a 4-4 if there were none.

YOUR FROM HK!!!!!?? JOSUN!

Jesus....again. wallyzs post is interesting, about 2 years ago we had massive debates over the devices actual ability to do what it says on the tin. We pretty much proved that it couldnt work. Anyway, they have no massively changed their theory. Where it used to induce swirl out of the...

your questions were answered were they not? and a nice debate is always fun:D

Well, until you compare the std 4-2-1 with that one youll never really know. It might end up being better but not good by far. What do i reccomend.........erm, wat cna you afford lol. I cant afford most of what i recommend.