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The AT Power bodies are cheaper on a 106 than either jenvey or AT's on a clio, and that's if you ignore the very succesful gsxr bike bodies kit Sandy Brown produces which is nearly half the price.
The 106 OMP cage is £100 cheaper than a clio OMP cage (brand new from same supplier)
And that's...
It was a healthy debate - I simply pointed out it's far cheaper to build a competitive pug/citroen than it is to build a competitive clio especially as it's very hard to get gains from the clio engine without spending a fortune.
A point which everyone else seems to have grasped but you seem...
Is the immobiliser light on by any chance?
I bow to Fred's superior knowledge but I'm 90% sure that if the crank sensor is dead you wouldn't be getting a spark either.
I'm sorry whut?
You can build a 106 with 170bhp on standard internals.
And a 106 weighs around 800kg when gutted, which gives is a pretty competitive power to weight ratio.
What's the gti6 lump (which is poo btw) got to do with a 106?
1999? No - 3 years ago. And I could get them for the same...
You don't agree that £600 is cheaper than £1800? Or you don't agree that £150 is cheaper than £600?
What have engine internals got to do with price?
I'm so confused.
You're stockhatch 205 cost £6k? My suspension/bodies/brakes and cage cost that alone! I've spent well over £10k on a casual track...
Fair enough - I realised they would be quicker on a race day - it's just people talk about them like they're a BTCC car which they aren't.
The sad thing is it's far cheaper to make a competitive 306/106/saxo etc.. than it is a clio. Clios just seem to be a bit of a pig to get power out of and...
The 306 BTCC cars I've seen don't have the original engines or gearboxes in. Surely sequential boxes are banned anyway?
I've been out on track with one and they're not as fast as you think they will be.
From memory they're about 250/260bhp but they weigh quite a bit more than a clio...
Yeah I must admit - this is going way off topic - but I've been thinking about just chucking some stack gauges in a carbon panel and binning the whole standard loom off completely
For the sake of fitting a speed sensor and a few other bits and making a very simple loom - saves £600 odd on a dash
Because the omex serial interface restricts you to just the race tech and a couple of others (due to being a 20 year old tech) - whereas with any ecu with canbus output you have a much more varied choice of dash display.
I wasn't saying there's a lack of data from the omex - I was saying the...
At the time we were chatting he was gonna try them on wasted spark - but he's not a huge fan of the omex and keeps trying to talk me into something else anyway. Mostly because I'm restricted to shitty serial output for a dash display lol
Yeah an extra few kg for a cheap fan heater in the dash would be a good idea - can always then flick a switch to power it up if needed.
I can't believe you kept it on the track with that lack of visibility!
Re: sonny172cup "track racer project"
You certainly can. I dremeled a small rectangle out of the waterproof casing big enough for a usb cable - then cable tied a long usb cable down the roll cage and into a 12v cigarette lighter usb socket thing. The box posted above will do the exact same...
I heard there was some slight advantages to the megane coil-on-plug style ones, and the fitting holes are on the 172 head. It's something I was gonna try next year as megane ones are easy to source and you could keep a few spares in the track bag
Sorry I didn't get chance to PM you back at the weekend mate, looks like you've got it all sorted though and for a good price!
You'll love the EPAS conversion - it's one of my absolute favourite mods behind the PMS shifter kit lol
That's probably the PMS top mounts - they are really noisy.
Mine knocks when I brake and compress the suspension and it knocks over bumps too.
They're solid mounts but have a tiny bit of play in the bearing so they do clunk a bit.
Pretty sure this has been covered a million times - try the search?
Inner rod - use a proper tool, or a viscus spanner from under the car. The rubber gaiter you just cut a cable tie and pull it back
Outer rod nut - get a long pipe wrench or something on it, they can be seriously tight, but...