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I watched the 5th gear hot hatch review at cadwell. The clio was shocking. Never changes gear when you want it too, vague handling.
I have no idea what they were thinking.
It's just a show off car for 19 year old chav's with rich parents now - just like the corsa vxr
Got diverted through there on Saturday due to the floods lol
Hope you get it sorted mate, if you ever need anything big from renparts and wanna save on the postage just drop me a PM as I can drive past them on the way to Wales and I'm over nearly every month ;)
Ahhh that sucks.
Luckily I'm only 40mins from Renparts so I drove over there and picked my column/ecu and rack out from a bunch. The first DCi rack I tried was crunchy as hell so I cherry picked what I found was the best.
It's a bit awkward over mail order :(
Just realised I wasn't far...
Yeah that's the one mate (50mm). You can get them dirt cheap 2nd hand if you watch ebay and they are fantastic little lenses for low-light or bokeh shots.
As Niall said the 70D and the 7D are soooo close you'd be chuffed with either. The 7D is a bit more pro-biased as it'll take a beating a bit...
For the female market? LMFAO
70D is a much better all-rounder, great for video, the flip out touch screen I actually really like using. But it is plastic, not weather proof, and slower than the 7D.
In all the tests/reviews I've seen the 7D is still the one to go for if you're doing...
Hahah that's the experience I've had with painting in the past, done it myself and it's ended up as much as a bodyshop lol
Still it's a good feeling to get a finish like that yourself
^^ I thought that too - but one of my mates is actually a "bolt specialist" and apparently the longer length bolt is better even with a 10 or 15mm unused section going through the spacer. Apparently the stretch is a good thing.
Generally speaking the longer the stretch the less likely they are...
Yep you can't compare one cheap mass produced 4cylinder revvy french FWD hot hatch with 150bhp/tonne to another cheap mass produced 4cylinder revvy french FWD hot hatch with 150bhp/tonne - totally different cars lol
106 cam pulleys have a hole in them that you lock to positions on the head. Flywheel has a hole that you lock in a very similar fashion to the Clio.
So you lock it all in place, remove the belts, swap the cams, re-fit the belts, turn it over a few times, check the timing etc...
It's pretty...
I don't get that?
You still have to remove and re-seal the cam covers, you still have to lock the flywheel in TDC and time everything.
Other than the fact that you have to strip the inlet manifold off a clio they are very similar. If you have the right tools I doubt either is quicker tbh...
I've gone a bit far for that now lol. I'd lose so much money on the bits on my Clio it would be pointless.
Plus I had a 106 for 8+ years. I bought the clio for a change. Also 106's rust the minute you look at them
Yeah I guess that makes sense. £2k min to do bodies, £3k ish for boost. So cams costing £700 + £300 map + fitting - puts them at around £1200 which is ok compared to the other options.
That sucks. I wish the price of things were based on what they cost to make rather than what they think they...
Oh aye don't get me wrong I realise in the grand scheme of things they're still quite cheap to build/run - it just confuses me why they are so much more expensive to mod than similar cars.
R+D is all I can think as well - but does it really cost so much more to develop a set of Clio cams...
Are there really that many more cam'd clio's than there are cam'd 106's and saxo's though?
I got warned of it when I swapped my GTi for a Clio - everyone said you needed deeper pockets but I still find it very strange when like the cams the parts are virtually identical.
This got touched on in burpspeeds thread, but got derailed. It's still bugging me though so want to know what other people think
Why do all Clio parts seem to have a "Clio Tax" added on? Are people just happier paying more for the same stuff??
I made a little comparison list between a Clio...
LOL if they're a solid plastic (blue, red, yellow) etc then you don't - but if they're like a soft rubber like the ones you posted above if you stick a lighter under them they heat shrink :)
Nah on the other wires I used the same as you - I've found those when crimped tight and heat shrunk are really good. Plus I cable tied them all up to the existing dash loom so they don't rattle around.
Hehe so am I - I just borrowed a soldering iron, stripped half an inch of insulation from the switched 12v cable on the back of the ignition switch, stripped 2 inches of the end of the thin wire going to the EPAS - wrapped it around the bare part of the 12v cable, held the soldering iron under...
Oh god. Quick splice?
The ecu powers the motor and draws nearly 60amps mate.
I took my permanent 12v from the battery with a 60a inline fuse, the switched 12v I stripped one of the ignition wire's back and soldered it on then put some heat shrink over the connection and the earth goes...