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Yes I know lol It's hard to explain without pics, even without the ballasts and starters in the way, the original power source is still a bit different to halogens so it makes it a bit more difficult.
Yes that's what I'm thinking about. It's simple on the halogen headlights but on the Xenons the starter pack sits on the back of the bulb and then you plug a wire into the back of that. I'm thinking you'll need to cut the end of that wire and put some spade connectors on the end or something...
4300K. Remember if you buy an HID kit and stick it into the Xenon headlamps you may have to do a bit of cutting and stuff with wires, as the way the bulb connects in the xenons is different to how they connect in the halogens.
Highlighted the problem for you ;)
Take it somewhere that has a clue what they're on about. Prospeed is probably closest to you, they get very good reviews on here.
Most people will find it easier to correct the front end losing grip than the rear end. I'm sure some of the trackday "heroes" will be along to tell us it's because we can't drive though.
Well mine blows a tiny bit when cold from one of the joints ( I can't see it though, can just feel it a bit if I cup my hands round it) but once it warms up and the exhaust expands and pushes itself together a bit it goes away so I haven't bothered trying to sort it.
From the way you've worded it doesn't sound like you've connected the original bulb power source to the new hid kit? Sounds like you've just sat the bulb in the headlight?
You could easily use wonder wheels on them if they are powder coated, won't harm it at all and is strong as fook. Just use it to get all the crap off then seal them up as said and use a softer cleaner.
Shouldn't lock itself after you've had the engine running. As said though if you unlock it then don't open any doors or anything it'll lock itself again.