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Can be quite common on 172s when running lower/more neg camber than stock - doesn't seem to happen to 182s as their drivers side driveshaft is a bit shorter. To shift engine over loosen off the upper engine and lower gearbox mounts, get a bit of bar etc and use it to lever the engine over by...

Is the car now sitting much lower on the coilovers? Is it running more neg camber? If yes it could be that the driveshaft is now binding between the gearbox and hub if the car is running lower or has more neg camber. Loosen off the engine mounts, shift the engine over towards the passenger side...

No problem mate - although probably unlikely just thought it worth mentioning as it has happened to me before. Hope you get it sorted quick and easy.

It's possible the circlip holding the bearing into the rotor has popped, which can allow the rotor to slide over the bearing and then the caliper bolts will grind on the rotor. I had this happen on my 172. Had a bearing replaced but the circlip didn't seat properly, drove around fine on road...

Shouldn't this be in the 'show us your engine bay' thread?

Grey sensor is the inlet air temp sensor. Might be worth checking the loom for any damage/chafed wires? If you can get an RSTuner or Clip from someone it will probably give you some error code/s which may help narrow down the possibilities :)

Ah ok - as long as you replaced with a decent O2 sensor ( OEM/Bosch?) then you are probably ok on that front. AFAIK the rear/post-cat sensor doesn't do much at all, so not sure changing that would have any effect?

I had a starting issue where the car would sometimes struggle to start - almost chug into life. Seemed to be worse on colder mornings. If you turned it off and then tried to start again it was fine. Long term fuel trim values were way off as well. Anyway, a new front O2 (lambda) sensor solved...

IIRC the SMI is for right hand drive cars and the TRW rack is on left hand drive cars only? But I am sure someone can confirm...

Do you have oem engine mounts? If they are old then that might not be helping as they can let the engine move excessively as well. But if it is the driveshaft binding/bottoming out then shifting the engine over to the passenger side should still help.

Might be your driveshaft binding/bottoming out - try loosening off your engine mounts and shifting the engine over towards the passenger side to give the driveshaft more room.

Also check the engine loom for signs of any chaffed/broken wiring...

That's the power steering pressure switch iirc. Not sure if that would be what was causing your issue though? I had a similar issue to what you describe and after cleaning throttle body/pedal connectors, fuse box, relays, ecu pins etc haven't had it come back since.

Thought I would post up my options for mounting a Gopro without using a suction cup. I was told that in-cabin suction cup mounts were banned when I was doing a track day at Phillip Island, which was pretty frustrating as they were fine to use at the other tracks I have been too. First option is...

I have a steering rack question as well - do you need to drop the subframe to remove/change over a steering rack? Or can it be done without dropping it?

You can get genuine Bosch ones on eBay for £50

Ah ok - I wasn't *quite* sure whether it was going to be over the £100 limit. Maybe upgrade the fluid at least? Jeezus if it's that cheap then yeah - get some of that as well!

Decent front pads and fluid

Maybe steering rack bushes?

Just be careful when you remove the plastic horn ring - it can snap if you are a bit too heavy handed with it. IIRC there is actually a screw already on the left side that you can use to fix the button down but there was nothing on the right hand side, but I found some small 8G self tappers...

Yes it can be done - I retro-fitted cruise control to my 172 and fitted the cruise buttons to the wheel no problem :smile:

Currently about 60p a litre for BP Ultimate where I am... :P

Right... well last weekend I had a fairly close inspection of the engine loom and couldn't find any sign of any damaged wires. Inspected the TB and ECU connector and also the fuse box and couldn't find any real sign of corrosion - here in Oz we don't get anywhere near the amount of corrosion...

Thanks Dan. Been doing a bit more searching on this on the forum and apart from giving the plug in the fuse box a once over I'll also have a look at the wiring/connectors in the engine loom/ecu etc.

Both part numbers - 8200110998 and 8200110994 - are actually printed on my throttle body lol, but Renault Oz only had a listing for 8200110994 - which as MarcR posted earlier is the same part number as the Twingo throttle body so yeah, should all be good. Just that sometimes with Renault things...

Recently I have had the car go into limp mode with the electrical fault light coming up on the dash a few times. Each time it has happened at the same spot in the cool of the morning, usually on the way to work - not long after starting the car (so not yet fully warmed up), turning out onto the...

Oops sorry... @Fred@BTM @Dan@SJM @MicKPM any help would be most appreciated :)

Fred@BTM Dan@SJM MickPM would any of you be able to confirm?

Fair enough thanks mate

Cheers for that - it's definitely ok to use on the Clio? I assume with the same part number it would be but want to make sure I am not missing something :)