Search results

Just rung my local 'stealer' to get a quote for simply fitting 2 front springs, which I have so this is purely for labour... The woman I spoke to said it will be £210 including VAT!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek: To which I replied how long does it take, a week? lol! No she replied, about 3 hours...

yes, as the 172 mk1 is ET43 as standard.

interior light and the door switches have permanent +ve feed to them but check the loading before using either of these ;)

well it is a mod, but surely it should lower the premium as they help you stop? ;)

:dead: :quiet:

no it's not standard, i'm not certain but that looks like the laguna splitter that rob added to his car.

ok, wont bother with rears just going to concentrate on fronts i think.

araldite or similar industrial adhesive will do, just make sure you fit it the correct way, lol! ;)

yeah, rear drums. Is it a simple job to convert?

yeah, i had this on mine. As Dink says, check your fuses as it sounds like the illumination wire has been shorted to ground.

ok, cheers for the advice edde and Dave.

not 'massive' but again not a 5 min job. bumper off, both headlights removed. Then fit new xenon headlights from full fat 172/182. The light loom may need altering somewhat as i'm none too sure on the loading of the ballast/ignitor units. But providing everything is ok on that side of things I...

not a fan then, lol! ;)

not interested in track edde as I never have, nor probably will be tracking my car :) Just simply after looks and to avoid putting the OE renault ones back on.

what do we think? Could be interesting... Link :cool:

cheers Dave, just taking a look at the k-tec web site.

now i'm not talking anything serious, it's only a 1.2 afterall :o but as a note on my MOT the tester advised that one of the front discs is just starting to corrode, but it's so slight it didn't even warrant an advisory notice. So...I was just wondering, seen as I'll be replacing them in the...

Cs discount? lol! ;)

No, the red should be the positive feed from the car's loom, to feed the H/U when ignition is on. The yellow should be the permanent live so that the H/U keeps it's memory/time etc... These sometimes need swapping round dependant on the H/U. The black I would guess is your -ve (or earth) which...

fred2001dynamic will do it for ~£40 iirc

:rasp:

check the main ones, like from -ve of batt to chassis and the main earth to alternator etc.

shark fin or standard

;)

the warning light would only come on if the alternator failed totally, the dim in your lights just shows that something (alt or battery) is not working 100% or as i said a connection is a bit dodgy.

yeah, but fred's is a non-sport which is ET37.5 as standard. The RS has a wider track as standard, hence the higher ET43 mate.

yeah I know mate ;) I think the main issue is going to be the outer tyre wall catching on the inner arch wall, depending on day's suspension set up/lowering etc...

more than likely the alternator but I would firstly check all earthing connections along with battery terminals. Grease them up and if possible test the battery to see what voltage it is giving out.

here not mine but thought might be useful for somebody ;) :rasp:

11mm further out than original rims so should be ok. Go measure?