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my 1.6 has drums at the rear(2002 dynamique). i think ones that have traction control will have rear discs [Edited by Dink on 4/28/2005 10:34:56 PM]

Quote: Originally posted by gunnergibson on 28 April 2005 lol.you can be summosed to court for having blue lights..there is no case law as yet, and a test case is needed, as a constant blue led doesnt quite fit the definition of a lamp/ warning beacon...standby whilst i link u to my old post...

if you are not going to be using the internal amp on the hu and its going for about £40, if not then its not worth it [Edited by Dink on 4/28/2005 1:41:37 PM]

I like it:D (why is there a deay on the rear screens in the first pic:confused:) [Edited by Dink on 4/28/2005 12:34:45 AM]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jonathan.thomas4/pics/subs.jpg just the box(not finished yet) housing 2xInfinity perfect VQs that will be running of a 1000w amp:D

the rca socket on the amp or the rca lead? my mate had a problem with a socket on his amp before so i took it apart daps of solder and it was good as new:D

electro-plating at home using a sacrafical(sp) anode (used on boats for years to stop the hull from rusting through)

31 months 1.6 16v 2 main faults window came out of regulator three times and it used to cut-out at roundabouts and junctions

bristol aint that far from cardiff;)

its the right lead you would be better trying to find a 1/2 metre one rather than a 3 metre on

yeah they are what you need but there is no need to get a 3m 3.5mm jack to male rca lead

you dont connect the speakers to the rca outputs on the head unit. you need to connect them to the rear outputs on the h/u in the ISO block

the angry face is cos i dont f**king live in america

all you need is some 16 awg(:@) from your local motor world would be fine and run it to what ever you are powering them off [Edited by Dink on 4/24/2005 2:31:16 PM]

still sh*tty orange though;)

well the amp output depends on the load(the sub). the jbl one i posted above will put 424wRms into one sub

yes if it is 500wRMS @ 2 ohms it will only do about 250wRMS in to 4 ohms(that sub is 4 ohms) that amp only does 300wRMS into 4 ohms [Edited by Dink on 4/23/2005 7:56:37 PM]

500wRMS @ 4 ohms.

well you are really supposed to get an amp that has a slightly higher rating than the sub.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4134&cadid=1055bf2490ded8bec229a9db2ef13c64JBL amp http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3592&cadid=c6830f3ba2ed2231e4e3185c9072f807Magnat Amp if you are just going to get one [Edited by Dink on 4/23/2005...

price?

is the ground tight on the amp? is it going to a piece of bare metal or a good bolt?

that shouldnt have stopped you h/u from working:confused: anyway glad you got it sorted

well the remote will only be live if the h/u was on. it might blow the one on the back of h/u but some h/u have a small internal fuse that will blow first

im guessing the one on the back of the h/u might have gone. but this would only go if you had it on and touched the remote to ground

http://www.cel-direct.com/speakers.asp?s_manuf=Infinitylook here

seems i was right putting the amp on flat and the hu on lpf:p. anyway you should get it sorted now you got a thread on ta.

in phase means that + on the subs are connected to the + on the amp and same for the -s. if you have got the switch to flat on the amp that means it is not using the x-over onthe amp

have you checked to make sure they are both in-phase? if you still think it dont sound right try lowering the x-over point slightly (65Hz) or making the slope steepier (-18db/oct)

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