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ive got fk coilovers on my clio, ive got them set to about 50mm lower front and back. im sure you can go the full 80MM but you might need to remove the front arch liners.

m8 i didnt think it was:confused: that was me admitting to knowing f**k all about car audio:D

yeah i meant put the hu on flat , honest:p :oops:

yeah that sounds like the setting.

no you ideally want to turn the filter off on the amp.

the JBL i posted puts out more power than the mac audio but the kenwood puts out loads more but cant really say what the quality is going to be like.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4139&cadid=4468f35eb4b0017a655e09bdd3605e37THIS

you only want to use one LPF (id use the one on the h/u) the LV setting on the hu should be set to 0 (the way you have it set up at the mo is you are reducing the output from the hu then boosting it with the amp). if you put the x-over cut off point to low then you sub will hardly be doint...

you want to put the slope on -12db/oct and put the LV to 0 ands 80Hz and see how that sounds

you will want to set the LPF to 80Hz @ -12db/ocv(slope) and if there is an eq you might want to put them to 0 [Edited by Dink on 4/20/2005 3:24:53 PM]

12 db boost is LOADS (id put it on a max of 3db).

what box are the subs in? turn off any bass boost on the amp and h/u will help loads.

nah its not that bad to do. i found the hardest part was to get the dash off. just as long as you got a small tipped soldering iron its pretty easy once you start

yeah they use orange leds so the only way is to change them is to remove them an replace them.:cry:

im only sure the mk2 ph2 clio has leds in the dials so cant say about the other models. i got my leds from http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010&CTL_CAT_CODE=30316&STK_PROD_CODE=M29417&XPAGENO=2HERE

i take it you mean in the cup, which means its a dash off dials out. then you would have to solder new leds on to the circuit board. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jonathan.thomas4/pics/led.jpg

how much are you looking to spend? most 2 channel amps will bridge into 4 ohms

click the above :devilish: yeah if they are svc 4 ohm subs you would wire them in parallel

because the specs arnt on that site you posted im going to assume they are svc 4 ohm subs. so you will be looking for a amp that can do about 900wRMS into 2 ohms. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4132&cadid=ec1d35d89a7d69c80eb21326da41f148 :devilish:< clicky...

Quote: Originally posted by McBunny on 19 April 2005 like i said nick works to stop lights dimming but does nothing on battery as basically a battery is just a huge capacitor remember there is a massive difference between a cap and a battery. cap stores electricity (about 200 joules for...

sounds like a dead cell (lost its electrolyte(sp))

ive had one in the past before i actually read up on the theory behind them. so i took it out and found that my lights dimmed less when it was removed. so i still think the big three and the biggest batt you can fit under the bonnet is still better

Quote: Originally posted by McBunny on 19 April 2005 a cap is no use while running off bat it only stops the amps pulling too much power while engine is running and making the lights dim and loosing you power etc etc in english:p caps dont work.

well im going to be pulling a bit (JL 1000/1) if i added another amp i would look into getting a split charge

Quote: Originally posted by clairesclio on 19 April 2005 no not worth it at all ditto. if you really are pulling loads from the batt you may want to think of a split charge

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jonathan.thomas4/pics/1105738042__DSCF0002.jpg pro-speed slightly cut into the bumper

there is a black cover over the regulator its written in white

i know my one on my 1.6 says 55A-90A

the difference is that with a 4-channel amp you can run the sub off two of the channels (bridged) abd amp up the fronts with the spare pair.

why does everyone favor philips over osram?