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http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/product.asp?numRecordPosition=2&P_ID=135&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=89Osram Cool Blue these would be much better

1: blue bulbs give less visablity at night. 2: crap (£5 per lamp fitting is :o) 3:yes they are street legal. now dont buy the ones off ebay as they are going to be sh*t. real H.I.Ds would cost around £300 to retro-fit

id buy one in that primer grey colour:D (only if i won the lotto) [Edited by Dink on 4/17/2005 6:08:12 PM]

im not a fan of KENWOOD stuff(should have stuck to making blenders) it looks ok but i cant comment on what it is actually like. installing it is easy as long as you take your time and make sure every thing is tight.

http://www.cel-direct.com/details.asp?ProductID=3533THIS is probably a million times better [Edited by Dink on 4/17/2005 2:36:14 PM]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jonathan.thomas4/pics/1107002149__newplate.jpg here it the black ones on a black car

you can use anything 12v(a small festoon bulb is good) when the bulb goes out you know its charged

make sure you charge it first!!! you wouldnt want to weld the power cable to it;)

not being funny but how much light does that let through?

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jonathan.thomas4/foamy.jpg

the gnd terminal on the amp should go to a bolt in the boot somewhere. there are a few topics about the grommet to put cables through

there £19.45 on power bulbs. id still go for white not blue

i remember seeing VBH testing one and said it was about the same pace as a vts. and the most she got out of it was 127mph and that was screwing the nuts off it

if they could stop xenon lights giving off a slight blue light they would. its better to get halogen lights that are as white as possible, as any blue tint is going to reduce the light output.

the oem speakers do not have a x-over as such just a bi-polar electrolitic capacitor mounted on the tweeter. they are both connected in parallel.

silver stars:D

H4 lamps are genrally crap because of the design. i would pick something by orsam or philips(imo osram)

yes they are legal to be retro fitted http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/HID/hid_faq.htmFAQ [Edited by Dink on 4/15/2005 3:51:51 PM]

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/HID/hid_H7.htmAutobulbs direct actual xenons:D and legal [Edited by Dink on 4/15/2005 3:40:22 PM]

you would bridge ch1 and ch2 into say the left speaker and ch3 and ch4 into the right.

i think he was talking about grounding in the car, because bad grounding in your house would be down to your earthing arrangement;)

*climbs into flame proof suit* ive got the black ones

the problem is the caps actually store electricity and have a very very low ESR. so no matter how big the cap is it is still going to pull power from your amp the recharge itself after the first bass note

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4109&cadid=1d3756e05d208ed10c4241936cb3fb7fCDA-9853 as to the 6x9s 300w is a max power rating and thus means nothing. if you want to keep then id sugest running them off a 2 channel amp [Edited by Dink on 4/13/2005 6:54:47 PM]

for the four speaker setup you would have it set to 3/4 using two sets of rcas or 1/2 when using just one set of rcas. bridged setup you should use y splitters and it set to 3/4 but try it just having the rcas going to ch1 and ch3 but it might be really quiet which then you need the y splitters

Quote: Originally posted by Dink on 13 April 2005 cant you not use the amp to run all your speakers un till you get your new amp? you have run two sets of rcas to your amp already right? then all you need to do is plug the front rcas into 1&2 and the rear ones into 3&4. then just...

m8 i think im just as confused :D bridging takes place by how you connect the speakers. to bridge the front i would say put on set of rcas into ch1 and ch3 and put the switch to 3/4

cant you not use the amp to run all your speakers un till you get your new amp?

a pure guess would be that it would be for intergating with the comps better at the x-over points. so the sub and comps would be working togeter (in-phase)

if you had bass note where the speaker went in then out, with reverse on it would go out then in on the same note