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Doesn't matter, it sa only a flow of current, so it doesnt make any difference.

For the Win

Yeh the switched live, typicaly the yellow one. But pop a multimeter across and flick on and off the ignition, the one which switches basically. But you will then need to wire your headunit permanent live onto your rear battery, and your switched live (ignition) of your headunit onto the...

Yeh, ok sorry. It's the tiny wire on the alternator, i believe its striped. It really is small... just split of that. However i foudn this to not have enough umpf to switch on my relay, so i just tapped into the ignition on the radio interface....

No your wrong, sorry, wallop is correct. The amp doesnt try to match the subs ratings. It only puts out whatever it can put out. And as wallop says with the gains correctly mapped they will not clip. Therefore distortion will not be present. A lot of people get matching or more powerful...

The spade connectors are for the switched side of the relay. The bolts are for the laod side. So add this in your line of wire from your front battery to your rear, preferably with 0 awg. Then wire the one spade connector to ground, and the other to the trace line on the alternator.

Whats the crack with seatbelts??? If i remove mine will i need some pro to put them back in. Or can i do it myself??? Want to remove my rear seats and seatbelts but after half a year they will be going back in. 6 months in then 6 months out etc........ MOT/service time they check them right...

Why not just carbon the the material part? That would look sweet if you have not kept the original interior and therefore no longer need the matchment throughout!

Yeh, Best i could describe it sorry. For some led's you only need a pap transistor, or heavy loads just use a transistor to power a relay!

Depends on quality of tints mate. Some just peal off, others need a bit more time as they split. Typically expensive ones peal off ok, and leave little sticky mess. Cheap ones will tend to leave a nasty sticky goo. Can be removed with a decent cleaner... I've used Cif in the past, or is it Jif?

Just tap into the cigarette light. I wired some CCFL's in footwells, and used a transistor to switch them on from this light on the lights. Got it wrong way around first time, but a bit more fun on wiki solved it ;)

No worries mate. Look a bit different now mind........

Inded for just a relay. Made by blind chinese girls with no legs for less than 10p yes....

What i use mate... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/180-100A-12V-Split-Charge-Relay-100-AMP-12-V-180-kit_W0QQitemZ280282252008QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280282252008&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1432|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Amp = 60-70 ( you wont get more than 60 i think but push 70, you can get a lot better amps for £70 i got my 1201.1 for that (1118W RMS)) Sub + box = 30-35

I apologise i missed that he said it was not present when the engine was off :o

Common fault with a few of their models....... Earth tracks in the HU go on a bit of a mad one! I have a link for fixing it yourself if you want to risk it...... If you can, try a new HU. Then you can be sure that it's the HU! What exactly model is you HU?

RCA's out and engine on... nothing through speakers - with that we can assume HU earth tracks. What headunit have you got??? Let me guess.... pioneer?

I had a cs60.2. The 2 channel version of that amp. Same problem... I determined that it was the amp in the end... May not be the same for you though.

Fro mmy understanding voltage drop is not necesserily a dependancy upon whether the car will start or not....The BEST thing to do is run deep cycle batteries. If it was as easy as an alarm when voltage drops, or a cut off then surely everyone would do this?

Slopes, the way its parked, or tyre pressures...

Well the fact that you're criticing every idea put forward to you is not helping yourself..... Meshing as i said will look chavvy when you don't cover it... if covered it will look good. So why don't you wish to use it???? No other options IMO!

Proper chavvy, but as it wont be visible (carpeted over) i advise you get some meshing. Alluminium from halfrauds, by the fibreglassing kits will be perfect for the job! Its reasonably strong and will add minimal disturbance to the quality of sound.

IMO this one will be the best out of the three you provided. http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/9741.html I use a lot of JBL stuff and it's always excellent value for money. IMO pick infinity over vibe too! I havn't tried any of these subs. But from past experiences and what...

Songs like prodigy peak higher see. Meaning that theoretically a smaller sub could deal with these better. This also means less weight and less space occupied. Look around for a 10" sub you like. Her are some guiders.... http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/8427.html This is the...

Ok, what music do you listen to mainly?? Fast beaty stuff? Bassline... or rap or dance or what? As a 10" may fit your needs better than a 12"

Sweet so does anyone know what aftermarket springs will hack the weight? Will the sportlines? And can i mix and match the drops on them ??? 60 front 30 back?

For SQ.... dont think the kappa would be the greatest. I haven't got one so i don't know... just not that well rated. Give us a budget!

Ok what shock and spring should i get then? Is there anywhere that will do none lowering ones for the back but sell me like 30mm drops for the front... or 30mm drop on back and 60 on front? As the extra weight, even on uprated springs surely wil drop it.....