Search results

Can't remember sorry. There were about 3 differnet settings for the aux and ipod functions. So we just meddled until it worked! Best to RTM!

There's a few settings you will have to fiddle with in the menu's on the HU. I fitted this exact HU to a mates car and he has an iphone. Took about 10 minutes of meddling with settings to get it to work!

It's proper rough where he lives anyway! :rasp: Apologies! Try churchill, fool!

All the same really. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/shopping_cart.php?cadid=67b205psq56scgs6gcd4ep5a85 Lead and unit separate, 127 delivered!

Looks ok to me, apart from the co-ax's, but at a show open that bad boy up and pull the crowds easily suppose! ;) As the subs are sealed they already have something to load onto, so can boom with boot open!

They change all the time due to how easily they get passed around. So the likelyhood of finding one current is minimal!

Screen? Single din? Or is it another type of screen? Clio mark??

Could be blown yeh. If you get infinite resistance its cus there is a short or a cut in the voice coil.

You cant just about fit it through the bonnet release. But the firewall is a few mm thick. So get a 5mm one. Maplin have loads for virtually no cost, so go there and buy a few until you find one that fits.

Ok. I was just saying. It's not at all good procedure. Doesn't bother me if you catch fire or not... I just don't want others doing the same, thinking "oh a year on it will be fine".

Oh, and could have been dodgy bulbs mate. Try another pair before cutting away your loom ;)

Regardless, it should be grommeted or at a bare minimum siliconed. Best bet is to remove the cable and drill out a larger hole and fire a grommet in there... it's your choice. But no pro would leave it as is.:dapprove:

Scrappy? And my guess is that the loom has the split pins that goes into the connector, may be worth cutting them off and attaching new ones soldering and heat shrinking. But i'm confident that it's not the connector blocks, unless they look battered. You're best to check the earth first. If you...

Well you need to put loads of silicone around it as if that cable plastic wears by movement and the bare cable touches the chassis, if you have it fused properly you will have a blown fuse and a new cable needed. If you havent fused it properly then you will have a nice fire!

What was it? Helps rest of us if ours throws the same paddy!

Except for the generic box... Will not really get the best out of the sub. Buy it though, could always re-box it up later. Not as much grunt as the JBL amp, so you will be inclined to crank the gain loads, so just take it easy on the gains..

If i were you i'd just use this... http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/second-skin-damplifier-bulk-p-4853.html?cadid=3i7st8nme1ku12jurdo373o1j3 Then if thats not enough id look to adding some luxry liner ontop of that. My guess is that will be enough. But it's personal preference. Oh, and that would...

Get some real sound deadening. Like dynamat or max mat, second skin. They all do "road noise killer" versions. Although they're quite dear they are undoubtably worth the expenditure! Try this... http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/second-skin-luxury-liner-p-4855.html?cadid=3i7st8nme1ku12jurdo373o1j3...

Yes, just some thick speaker cable. And that match of that alpine sub and the jbl amp, will be sweet, yes!

Well when you buy the sub, it will be in the instruction manual. As the subwoofers vary i can't say for sure. http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/graphics/diagrams/dvc2ohm.gif That gives you the basic ideal. The middle connectors may be included with the subwoofer. So basically the subwoofer is...

Still very expensive amplifiers for class D, with such little ouput. How about this? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-gto7001-p-6737.html?cadid=pngp62tqg3qlj9r5dhtqss6fv1 Keep the alpine sub mate IMO, That would put 700 watts into that sub, if you parralleled the voice coils. That would give...

Much better amplifiers than that out for £200. Get a JBL one and take the gains easy on it. An amplifer will only output upto whatever the gains are set as... Also don't forget that they're a dual voice coil sub. So it's either 2 ohm or a 8ohm load. Not as i think you anticipated with the RMS...

What model is your HU? I managed to get normal pre outs on mine without the need for the 90 angles! All 3 sets! So hwo deep is it. I bet it can be done! Just get the flexible rca's.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Adaptor-RCA-Phono-Right-Angle-Stereo-Black-Red-Pair_W0QQitemZ370156058665QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL?hash=item370156058665&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

2 x 12's? Big for a 45hz box? Or before displacments? i only run 4 cu inc dispacements at 24hz :P Back on topic just buy some generic stuff from halfrauds! Will be k, unless you know what you want get anything :P

Tindeed, thats why design software should be used, such as BBp6 for best results. But PORTED BOXES DO WORK! And are a big gain in SPL output to that of a sealed box. FACT! And fusion make some good boxes tbh....

Oh dear SQ fairies have overtaken CS! 6th order quasi-isobaric series tuned bandpass FTW! Wimps with sealed systems!

TBH i never ever had a problem with mine, and mine is always up on the jack! 1.2 though!

Real men can get 0 guage through, no danger!! :rasp:

Water or excess heat, mate. Standard bulbs?