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Mk1 F4R ITB Insurance - £77 a month Petrol - £100 - £150 a month (i only drive it at weekends and a few times some evenings). Maintenance - average around £150 a month on improvements. (some essential, some not)

I said i would do it for you :P

I can do them for you

Correct tools cost about £150 and can be bought from any renault delaership with a parts counter.

Brilliant brilliant game, im going to have to download this i think :)

Step 1 - Sell 1.2 clio Step 2 - Buy cheap 172 for track car purposes. Step 3 - ENjoy a car that has uprated brakes and suspension to match the increased engine power and enjoy it on track. Step 4 - ?????? Step 5 - PROFIT

Proper filter FTW.

AMEN. F4R's love to be thrashed imo. Mine gets a constant pasting everytime its out gets better and better, uses no oil, no water and doesnt smoke. TLDR: put your foot down more, it wont hurt it, just your wallet :D

Nice setup there, im running F4R on ITB's too, my cold start looks about on par with yours lol (i.e piss poor). Enjoy it their are a hoot to drive with.

You are parked pretty much outside my house in Charlestown. I figurd youd be on here because it looks like it has the typical cliosport mods to it :P

When your dephaser is knackered you are affectively "freewheeling" between a 0 to 16 degree advanced state and anywhere inbetween. WHen the engine is under load though i expect tension will keep it in one state, but at idle it will flap about hence the tractor noise.

100% Driveshaft inner joint dry of grease. Get a new shaft.

You are supposed to use red grease, anything else can deteriorate the rubber boots.

CL RC5+ are seriously good, and no the new compound does not eat paint.

Live in Cornwall, F4R ITB'd Mk1, quite a hoot to drive :)

I would be swapping out the crank sensor. THe shift light will be controlled by the ECU, which will be controlled by engine speed read by the crank sensor. If you are getting a missfire at a cerain at certain revs and the light is triggering at this point too, then there lies your problem IMO

Clearly nobody is actually opening their eyes and reading the graph. It says "Wheel torque ft lb", NOT flywheel. Now considering the gearbox is a torque multiplier and it doesnt mention Engine torque, why is it so silly? Im guessing its just some funky old RR that calculates the power slightly...

Slap some diesel in the tank and she'll be purring away at that compression!

Lol, im sooooo going to change my rev limiter to 7800rpm tommorow :D

I remember seeing a RB parked up in mangotsfield aswell, this would have been about a year and a half ago though now :P

Something smells fishy

Yo paddy mine was £800 on the dot with Sky Insurnace on an ITB F4R'd converted Mk1. PS i fngered your thottle bodies yesterday ;)

In Pauls "live mapping" offer thread, he will map your car UNLESS you have cams (flol good live map that..), which suggest he doesnt have any pre made cal's for cams and cant be bothered to make one from scratch.

Im pretty sure i am right, the rarest of all Mk1 Clios was the 1.8RT 8v model featuring the RSI engine but with just a single injector. They were made only in 1993 and produced 95bhp. My nan had one lol

Im running the above 285mm kit on my mk1 and rate it well. The larger disc will absorb and dissipate more energy than a stardard size disc, meaning increased resistance to brake fade. And as above, turning moments e.t.c dictate less clamping force is required to do the same amount of braking...

Lol i raised a smile, wtf was with the cookie monster noise right at the end :/

It is, i have the same rad, with the same engine setup, ECU logs show coolant sits at 85-89 degrees all day long, it is adequate for the job :) PS nice new coil pack bracket ;) wonder where you got that from.

Clearly not, 127ft lb's is way of the mark.

I bet 2 custard creams your timing is out, get it retimed by a specialist.

Surely that doesnt give an accurate reading as the oil sitting in the T piece is static and not flowing?