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still aint convinced its worth the hassle, since given the doh spent, u could sort out a valver handling, but then again aint ever eaten my hat so there u go!, ps why is image downloader taken the huff

http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/thumb/1070382597__SHEILD1small Is this any good to you Alex

I did mine with engine enamel which cost less than a fiver, bakes on for a tough finish, although needs carefull application for a smooth finish, although u can imrove it using a bodywork cutting compound or even tcut

made one of aluminium plate, much better, sod paying 40 odd for that, you can make better! Having said that I ran my valver without anything there fror over a year and no hassles, although agree probably better having something there!

pretty sure back calipers are same also, there is probably few other bits and bobs shared

Yep piece of piss, only problem that pops up is the little screws that hold disc on, they can be a bugger to get off, especially without and impact driver and suitable cross head bit. But have no qualms if you have to drill them out as you can get by without them!

I made a better replacement out of aluminium sheet, much better, posted a pic of it a while back, try a search? Got a few pieces left, could maybe do a few of them, never thought about it

love to help you, but I just aint sure, you would be able to tell if you had a willy one and a r19 one on the bench, you could ring nick hill or something, good chance he might know

I know a good solution for wife/girlfriends travel sickness though, just leave them at home, lol

I have the K-TEC 4.5" slash cut, quality is very good and over a year later it is still pretty much gleaming, however it was too loud, and when MOT came I put CAT back on instead of the non silenced decat, and its much better, not as loud, but the same quality burble, they are pricey though!

If you take the hubs off yourself (not that difficult, actually fairly straightforward, and then take your new bearings and the hubs to a garage with a press, then it will only take them 10 mins to press old ones out and put new ones in, then put hubs back on yourself. My local garage only...

yep pretty sure it is

Sorry guys, here is the part number 1L0805903F Spoiler £16.84 (thats actually without VAT but still a bargain, I got two for £39.57) Hopefully post a pic in next couple of days if you are all still interested

It was me with the toledo ones! It wasnt that I wouldnt answer peoples questions, I couldnt as had no internet connection at home or at work for a couple of weeks. However will get a photo and the part numbers posted for you all, sorry about that

yeah I have changed all my mounts for renault ones and find them inherintly poor. They are just too soft, I was thinking about an engine stabilizer bar that you get for minis. On them it goes from head onto a bracket on bulkhead and is like a little pressurised gas strut. Reckon one modified...

Good just be a ropey radiator, remember cooling system is pressurised so radiators sometime do go in spectacular fashion, although the massive amount of steam make things look more serious than radiator, get a new one, refill with a 50/50 mix and see. This is especially true if car was running...

No but if you have the haynes and sit for long enough, you can pretty much suss the connections, just confusing to read sometimes

yep £36, i thought that was ok too

yeah you wont notice much difference and if you do its probably the new fluid that goes in when fitting. But well worth it for lifespan (prob longer than car), so if you intend to hold onto car, get them

Well i paid £36 for one from my local dealer, which isnt too bad i reckon

Sorry guys for being off the forum for ages, but hassles at work meant I have had no internet access for best part of a month, and aint got a machine at home at the moment, so really sorry for not getting pic up yet, nor answering to PMs about this. The splitter is for a 1997 Toledo and it looks...

a good tip, you wont ruin your 7mm allen key, cause its the only place I have ever used that size (maybe vauxhall front calipers is the only other time I have needed a 7mm) and it can be tight squeeze

How to solve squeeky brakes: Take pads out and with a grinder make a small (few millimetres) campher on leading edge of each pad. Reassemble with copaslip and bingo! cures 90% of these problems

sh*t sorry guys, havent been near computer for a couple of days. i originally phoned dealer about ibiza ones and he was saying he sold loads but mostly to non seat owners, seat have apparantly got wise as to how popular these were with modifiers and have so upped the price significantly. He then...

I was thinking about this recently, any pics anybody

when i stripped my valver and rebuilt it, i took a pile of photos of things, so I could recall where everything went, sent them on a blank cd to someone on here before (Rossa i think) but if they are of use to you let us know will send them to you

decent rolling roads have no excuse not to correctly state a flywheel figure, as when the dyno run finishes and runs down, it will measure the loss through driveline which can then be used to get an accurate flywheel figure. This is all assuming RR is calibrated correctly, which they should be...

Got front one on and I reckon it looks much better than ibiza ones, it is essentially the same but the vent is split horizontally full width. Also it did not need to much modifying. will get a photo posted soon for anybody interested

yeah headlamp out, loosen aux belt tensioners central allen lock bolt, its a 7mm allen key, then use a spanner to turn tensioner to loosen belt, undo alternator bottom bolt and top mounts (where it attached to manifold etc) and remove alternator through headlamp aperture, if you still struggle...

mine was always making funny noises etc, never bothered with it, but recently had engine out and upon install with a new aux belt and new fluid it hasnt made a peep since. I reckin new fluid and a belt will silence for a while valver PS gremlins, worth a try