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Hillpower i believe for one . Will look up the link ! When pointing it away from the rad the heatsoak will very much be okay i think :)

Anybody that can share thoughts on the "non-carbon" Maxogen ?! Exact same design only an alloy one ? Probably little more heatsoak at slow speeds ... This one costs less than half i believe ?

^^ indeed ; what gear ? I remember Henk mapping my car on the RR and him always using WOT in fourth gear . This for a more accurate reading . Many RR use third gear which will have given your car seemingly more power , but not accurate ?

^^ you got a point there ; i also think only the belts need changing every 5 years. Not the bearings/pulleys etc. But i may be corrected !

he is going to tel you to stick to 5w40 or 10w40 full synthetic .. ( i think)

how many miles have you got on yours !? I tried to explain my situation that the mounts on mine needed changing TWICE in 70K So when you have around 40k on her or even more, just change them ! transforms your car do the dogbone and the two top ones. Why not try the Ktec ones ? They seem to...

I did them all round. And we did it ourselves but had a ramp to our disposal. The two upper ones and dogbone were easy, i found the lower gearboxmount the difficult one. Also this one is a rubber-bit the engine "leans" on when tilting. I will leave that one alone next time round because...

^^ enough said

I'm with Fred. Nothing wrong with mine (oem) and i have been on H&'R s for over a year now !? I do'nt like to change anything about the design they did on the geometrics of the suspension /car. I do know , when parking in+out , you can save the mounts a huge amount by NOT turning full lock...

i'm sure the OEM ones need changing quite regularly , mine were changed twice in 70K. Makes the car drive like new ; less play in engine , better response , etc etc. I'm (for now) sticking with OEM, but i'm tempted to trie the K-tec ones if the OEM ones are going to wear on me quickly...

^^ right . I do know Yozzasport has never ever had negative feedback/complaints on here (CS) . All i have read in these last 3 years was love ..

nah, would'nt think so.. when ordering these bolts/gasket sets at Renault you will pay dearly for them so Yozza will not deliver those for the price you paid. The set required (for example the manifold to cat gasket + bolts) costs more than 30 pounds

The MB one is the best , independently tested (Ps; yep the clutchpin will be overkill on your synchros)

Glos182 ; that must be the worst flowing caf i have ever seen.. :dapprove: Trie something else. Not meaning to be negative or dissing you or anyhing like that, but that is no good ! It's squished in there , causing major restrictions along the caf !

the cannister is also giving the noise some more volume as it passes through. ah well , problem solved eh !?:approve:

No, i think the aux belt is to drive all auxhilary pumps etc. Cambelt only for timing/cams not sure about costs. pm Mike@Rentech or Fred

^^ think it's indeed PAS pump or something.. When warms up the noise dies out. Mine had full cam/aux belt service and noise is still there ! So my guess is PAS pump too

My Cup has the same setup as Alper , just not the M$$xogen airfilter ; mine made a small 174 at the wheels too on RR so i think the outcome of an RR session for Alpers car will only indeed confirm.. or even show BETTER . When thinking of it Alper ; pretty damn good results for the...

looks like you drove it out of the showroom.. pretty low mileage aswell , good decision Welcome back to the Going+Throwing :approve:

might also be one or two of the exhaust mounts touching metal on metal.. they need to "hang free" . Imagine when tilting the engine a bit ; it can push the exhaust position back or forth a little so that the mounts are touching. Bringing bad vibrations through the chassis ! Really woth checking...

post your findings + experiences please ; i did the new OEM mounts all round, and i find that after a couple of months the wearing is already noticable . Still drives fine but i know they will need changing again in the next 7K

My 172 Cup will eat it and spit it out.. Especially when in curvy territotium . They are just too heavy and underpowered

why did you loose the cams ?

sorry for late reply; Thanks for all the compliments :o The car is on H&R's , height is set up exactly how they came out of the box. Recommended ride-height by H&R . Purpose of the thread; It's REALLY worth it to do the lower ball joints + outer trackrod ends from time to time ...

It's defo not leaking externally, and hey ; mileage on a june 2003 car ? Not that high. Although, it has done 117000km. I think the people mounting them have neglected some things meant to be changed :mad: Maybe i'll be doing tappets etc. soon then ; and ANOTHER cambelt :dapprove: in...

Hi Bucko, do'nt know if you have already lost your exhaust but this is important. The exhaust expands when running (heated) and this can cause one of the mounts ( or more) to touch metal on metal, if you know what i mean. When not taking this in account the exhaust will send all it's...

after looking hard + again at your graph i now understand what you mean. Indeed not much difference. Henk told me, when mapping mine on the rollers, that he filter setup i have was "good" , he was probably checking what you showed me just now . Alper, something else.. Has your car started...

:star:Looking good Alper, great results ! Looks almost identical to mine :) Car still thrills me every time , it's a blast to drive Could you tell a torque or top-end difference with the new airfilter ? Any comments from Henk on the airfilter ?

Ralphsizzle, your English is'nt all that either ?! (understatement) so why comment on Patricks' ?? :rolleyes: Patrick, car looks far better this way !

i'll be doing this every couple of thousand miles ; transforms the car