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I’m assuming your old shaft is being used ?
Reason I ask is because if the shaft is slightly longer it’ll push the gaiter inwards to the diff and the rubber will want to naturally want to pop off as it’s under stress .
Also , if the bearing wasn’t pressed on all the way down the shaft it will...
Put an additional fat cable tie around the rubber / bearing end and see if it happens again .
Also was it a genuine part that was fitted ?
Renault ones have a metal clip around them don’t they ?
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One that I may attend , dust the cobwebs off the ole girl.
Looks like a really nice venue @MrBlonde .
Thank you for organising [emoji1303]
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Make sure all your pins are in the correct point @ ecu to each pin on pedal and motorised throttle.
Don’t just continuity check , do a resistance check on each wire once confirmed it’s at the right pin @ecu.
And also check that each correct wire hasn’t a short across to other wires and to...
Do you have a M4R700 engine number ??
If so the part number could be
231000012R
Have a scout about for one .
Put that number in some search engines .
Hope this helps .
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Yes that’s a cup alternator .
As it’s in-line top to bottom also it has no thread for the swing bolt .
You will need to buy a long bolt and nut to accomplish securing it to the block bracket .
75amp works fine with EPAS , just be cautious when using all the electrics at once if a road car ...
100% it will fit .
New plug has pins A & B
Match the old plug wires A & B
Temp join the new plug to the OE loom and see if she fires up , if she does she’s golden to solder [emoji1303]
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I’m open to your suggestions , poss a t-piece of some sort .
Issue is it’s another weak point in the line to poss fail maybe. [emoji1303]
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Forget the woodruff key , it doesn’t come into play at all .
The cut mark on the flywheel is the only tdc mark you are concerned with to time it correctly.
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How you check your at TDC is off the gearbox marks .
There is a cut mark in the flywheel and a zero point in the box .
The pin slots in at that point and only when at tdc number 1 .
You can confirm by where the rotor is on the distributor cap , firing cylinder 1 is closest to flywheel end...
Erm , looks like your air con is non functional ?
Is that correct .
Anyway moving on .
Mist coming from air vents with air con not functioning will 100% be coolant spray from a leaking heater matrix . The spray from a poss pin hole size leak is getting into the heater air flow and being blown...
You have the pressure switch close by , unscrew that and turn engine over with crank sensor disconnected to try and bleed out any air .
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Uphill is fine to bleed the air out , also jack up one side only and then manually bleed by doing lock to lock without the engine running.
20-30 turns lock to lock and try and see if that helps .
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I would only suggest replacing the seal.
That’ll mean the gearbox has to be stripped and prob end up being a refurb while your there .
Weigh up costs of that vs a second hand box I guess.
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