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No way id gut my doors, until you have had a big crash in one of these cars you wont appreciate how structural the door is to the car. Your removing such a small amount of weight its not even worthwhile, you will probably find changing one wheel for a lightweight one will net you more than the...

Road mapping is actually the best way to map a car, as your mapping it in its real life environment. But on the open road its a pain in the arse, you need a closed road or test track to do it on really so you don't get into bother with the law.

Depends on the size of pistons in the calipers, 197 Brembo's piston size designed to run with a servo setup. The 197 does run a bigger master cylinder but the size difference is fairly small so thats why when fitted to a 172/182 they work with no issues. Now if you go and buy a set of AP...

Gaz are crap, had them on many cars i have bought in the past. If your lucky some of the Gaz Gold setup are "ok" because they have been used in race championships so have had a lot of R&D. But there are probably better suspension setups for the money. Certainly avoid the GHA.

Time for a proper 7.25 clutch, my findings are the likes of the standard Valeo or Helix paddles dont cut the mustard. On rally slicks especially up hill starts the clutch would slip slightly coming off the line causing excess heat and the pressure plate warps, might be better on standard...

Millers CFS and Fuchs Titan race are both very good oils, I've never tried the Millers buta friend of mine uses it in his BMW S50 motor which is very tired and its still going strong on it. Looking at its stats it looks like it can handle higher temepretures than the Fuchs (small amount though)...

Yeah the car will effectively handle worse with the front spacers fitted, you need wheels as close to ET43 as you can get for the correct scrub radius as even 5mm can effect it quite drastically. If I remember correctly making the rear wider will give more stability but also lean towards...

Depends on what discipline you are using it for I think. I rally which means my helmet is constantly on and off, in and out of the car. Car turns into a BBQ after a stage then you have the road section and que for the next stage to get nicely cooked so I like to be able to unzip my suit to cool...

Just make sure its a Cup so it has the LSD or will be wheels spin city on track.

I disagree, you need as much air into the ducts as you can get especially with indirect cooling (i.e. deflector plates) . The more air you have the better effective cooling capacity. The air under the car is low pressure/high volume, air being drawn from the arch will be far higher than the fog...

The trouble with this type is they don't actually catch much air, most of the airflow is travelling sideways over the bumper so isn't getting forced into the duct. You need something to catch the air, that's why the cup racer ducts stick out on either side to catch the air. Best place to have...

If you oil it and wipe the excess off every so often id imagine that will stop the rust setting in.

They are bloody strong, I've had a couple of big ones in these cars and they stand up very well. One of the worse things you can do on them though is gut the doors, there is a lot of strength in them and for what you loose in weight its a very silly mistake to make.

I actually misread that its an aftermarket pedal box, can you put a picture of it up? also find out the size of the MC's .625 & .7 are common sizes for the cylinders.

Just get a 6 point safety devices or similar if you really must have one, that way you can keep the half cage in for daily duties and when you want to track it just fit the front hoop and door bars. Personally id get pissed off not having any back seats, unless you are doing lots and lots of...

You need to increase the leverage on the brake pedal/master cylinders, will mean re-designing the pedal box. I've looked at one briefly before and to get the correct ratio you basically need to start again, the main reason im still running a servo on my car until I come up with a decent layout...

Don't run the spacers and save yourself the hassle ;)

Remove the front spacers also, will have ruined your scrub radius

Yeah the standard brembo stuff is pretty good as a road pad, definitely more that just your standard pad thats for sure. It's all i use in my cars for DD.

Never driven a DC5 but I know they use hydro electric steering so I'd imagine they are much better. A lot more expensive though.

It's nice to have big toys but not nice having the repair bills if they go wrong, atleast with the 172 you know if it breaks its going to be affordable to fix.

No problem, i think i was pulling away in that photo so probably sits around 10mm higher in the rear static but its a decent height for aesthetics without being slammed.

This is B14's with the adjuster rings and rubber pads removed. I have since fitted the adjusting collars and raised the car about 20mm rear and 10mm front and feels much better for it. If you want to go any lower than B14's allow then sell your Clio and buy a VW lol.

EP3 is the logical choice if staying relatively standard, can start to get very expensive when modding. You will come back to a clio sport though, they just aren't the same. Almost soulless, big and and absolutely laughable turning circle, great engines though! 172 with K20 engine would be an...

Did the geometry change in-between having it done multiple times? if so you have some wear in one or multiple componenets. I had a similar issue on an e36 328i sport I had and turned out to be the ball joints. Get it checked out by a Clio sport specialist, they should be able to track the issue...

Can you get the person you borrowed the green ECU off to try the red one in their car? Be the easiest way to tell.

Id imagine if it does not rev but runs there is some sort of sensor issue, I would compare sensor types between euro and UK cars and also the ECU pin outs to make sure all is the same.

RPF1's are a really nice wheel, had a set on my EP3 but they offer really crap brake clearance. Great if you want to run stock brakes but very limiting for decent sized BBK.

Not really worth shelling out loads of cash to change but if you are buying new wheels go for the lightest you can afford, and by that I mean comfortably so if you nail and wheel on a pot hole you could afford to just ring up and buy another straight away. Personally I can tell the difference...

They do look right but it is a bad picture and 40mm inserts all look very similar. Personally I wouldn't pay £700 for some old bilsteins, everyone gets hooked up on cup racer stuff but its really nothing special. Id get BC's with the hardest springs they do.