Search results

To get the whole selector out yeah... Unless you can manage to do the white sleeve in situ.

Don't break the tabs on the cable clips either otherwise it's new cable time 😠

Yeah pretty much where the arrow is but underneath if you get me.

The pin is fixed to the arm I think, so you'll need to remove the whole selector from the box from memory. The 13mm bolt I was on about is from this direction..

Can see the white sleeve here There's a 13mm bolt that is in the side of the box which pins the selector in. It's sort of under the gearbox mount area, if you have a feel around should find it. You'll need a ratchet spanner to do it.

The white plastic bush needs reaming out as mentioned. Happend on my brother's 225 years ago. Need to pop the selector out the top of the box and then remove the c clip type thing off the end and slide the rod out. I'll see if I can find the pics I took from years back.

10.9 is the same as oem yeah.

Yeah was Bentley. Mate has just had his Sparco RS wheel done by Royal and it looks decent tbf.

Measure the length of one that you have removed, as Dom says they're 110-120mm M10 from memory.

I'm sure Mark does something else while he's in there to make sure it doesn't leak 🤔

Anything by Kwazar They have viton seals so will stand up to pretty much all chemicals. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

Since the rebuild on mine done by @NorthloopCup it doesn't leak anything. I change mine every year with Redline MTL.

I've done mine and a mates on stands with the beam still on the car. Used one of those threaded rod pullers though so it made it a whole lot easier.

NFJ is semi synth and NFP is fully synth I think. Not sure on exact specs, but NFP is closer to GL5 with it being GL4+ I know the brass synchro's don't get on with the higher sulphur content in GL5 stuff.

Have a look in @Tomotek thread to see how he did his racecar rear quarter poly windows. Should be able to do similar with glass.

Yeah all Ph2 have same part number, so must be the same. Euro probably sold you non sport ones years ago knowing them useless pricks 😂

Nah cos they all use SMI racks.

All sport racks should be the same apart from ph1, so tie rods should be same length.

They normally turn over quicker when the cambelt has gone because of bent valves.

90 tooth, nice!

Mode 2 is 135nm and then full beans is 3.

Use mode 1 mate, that's 85nm max. I use that all the time for tightening wheels.

I had a look on B&Q and it's a driver. You do a 3/8" socket adaptor with it. It 'should' do wheel bolts just about.

Crying now, cheers.

Anything better than these for similar money...

Ryobi brushless stuff is good for the money.

AD08's were fine in snow when I used to run them. Mint tyre.

Always going in dry then.

And start calling everyone Boss.

@NorthloopCup ? Bit of high temp moly grease on release bearing isn't it?