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There should be a thread stickied with freds pictures of snapped belts and belt change bodge jobs he's seen. James if you want to save a few quid get the Gates timing belt kit, the renault aux belt kit and take it to somewhere like Birchdown.
Re: break swap
Youll need some adapters, the 1.2s mostly have the same front calipers as a clio williams/16v. The 172/182 already uses calipers from the laguna.
First of all there is a small chance there is an adjuster nut on the handbrake arm under the plastic cover on your hand brake lever. If not then youll have to jack the car up, undo the heat shield thats in the middle of the car above the exhaust/cat and youll see the adjuster nut, youll need a...
You could move the mounts but where the exhaust bends over the rear axle it would foul it moving either way. Have a look behind the backbox and youll see what I mean. The reason why I know so much is because I had the same problem ages ago when i was given a ph2 decat.
Check the boot floor and under the spare wheel, check the structure behind the bumper, check the roof for creases. Check where the tailgate bolts to the shell.
About a inch and a half!! Youll need a cat designed for the ph1. To fit a normal 172 cat youd need the shorter centre section and a bung for the 2nd lambda sensor hole.
They are the same as far as Im aware, the difference is only that the cup box has a speedo drive sensor. The 172mk1 has slightly different ratios (higher speed in each gear).
If your 172mk1 has the twin barrelled cat it has the shorter cat. You will need a shorter decat designed for the 172mk1, also to confuse things more the later ones made in 2001 have 2 lambda sensors so you will need a cat with 1 or 2 holes for the sensor depending on your car. If yours is a...
Mines the same as the above, Ive seen a lot worse. If you loosen the bolts that go into the bottom of the wing and the bolts under the grille, get someone to push the bumper into the car, then tighten it improves the gaps.
The mount is what the bracket sits in, its the black buffer and rubber part that is the mount itself. The mount doesnt look damaged (from the pic), you just need a bracket and bolts. The 3 bolts should be tightened to 62Nm and the nut 44Nm
There shouldnt be that much, only a tiny amount of movement. Tightening the bolts on the clamps is an easy fix, 3 are easily accessible and the 4th is with the right sized socket piece. The bolts on mine were not that tight at all.
Its very easy. While the engine is supported underneath (use a jack under the sump) Its the 2 or 3 bolts you see on that part that need undoing and the nut that goes into the mount. The sensor just plugs into the loom and slots in the side of the plenum, held in with its rubber grommet.
As above its the map sensor. The bit thats cracked is not the mount as such, its the bracket bolted to the engine that sits in the mount. You could easily get this 2nd hand along with some new bolts. They must have had the torque gun on the max setting!!
Does it just do it when engine cold, does it do it at low revs, does it get worse with revs. Could be faulty dephaser pulley. The lack of oil changes can cause many problems on these engines.
Is it a mk1 or mk2ph1 clio?? If its a Mk1 it will be 8v it will be E7J, some early mk2ph1 RTs had the 8v aswel. if its pre 2000 RT chances are its a 16v and will be K4J.
If its just the hub they are the same on all 172s, not sure about 182s as they maybe a different length. As for the whole rear beam, the 172mk1 and cup beams are slightly different, but the bits from your old one needed such as the headlight adjuster can be bolted on. The 182 rear beam will fit...