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Yes I am sure the lambdas are heated until the engine is upto temp so they are effective when the engine is cold.

182 doesnt have a cable throttle, as above it could be an air leak or something isnt bolted down tight enough.

What year 1.6 is it??

As above, need to know make, and part number and where from please?

The ones from Renault the ends seem to bend and be flexable so when you bend it to get it in, once its in it goes back to its orginal shape.

Usually loud knocking when accelerating/coming off the pedal in 1st/2nd gear.

Everyman and his dog has a iphone, get a Treo.

They are high as standard, id say most by now have been lowered. The back shouldnt be twitchy though, chances are its a worn shock absorber. You can check for play in the bushes with a crowbar.

Its hit and miss, some 1.2s mainly the 8vs had different bolt hole spacing on the fronts.

I keep spotting a silver 172mk1 W reg with towbar and evo sticker around Leics, it seems everywhere I go its there!! Locations such as around Hinckley, Bosworth park last weekend and spotted on the M69 on Tuesday.. Anyone off here??

Wherever you read the stats its different. For the record im sure mine tops out at 65 in 2nd gear. Thats with it fully warmed up on standard wheels.

I doubt it would have influenced the outcome(?).. but its a shame the 172mk1 is always overlooked in these kind of things. The reviewer does not seem like an experienced car reviewer.

Very nice, it already looks great in standard form.

The first one.

k-tec sell one on their website.

They say every little helps but for the effort and work involved i dont think its worth it and doubt there would be any gains. Best bet is to try and do something with the bit along the middle with the 2 screws. Ive not noticed that step on a 172/182 body.

Ive got a key just like that, if you look in the first page of the manual there will be a wheel nut key number, give me the number and ill see if they match.

Youve succeeded where others have failed, I can remember when giles on here (what ever happened to him??) Tried the conversion and couldnt get it to work because his abs system was detecting the wrong amount of teeth.

The oil filler flap on my engine cover came off and melted on the exhaust manifold, smelt lovely.

Theres normally some on ebay.

Is there any specific grease to use for filling the driveshaft gaitors?? Im rebuilding both sides with new gaitors and clips but cannot find anything off the shelf that will do, all I have at the moment is Castrol LM grease which looks too thick..

Forgot to say, use the Renault approved type D stuff, or the red advanced stuff from halfords will be ok.

I wouldnt risk it as its already a weakish spot of the engine. If youve got the idler and tensioner from the kit youve bought, Id go to Renault and buy the belt on its own, its only about £10.

Nice, love the standard look.

Deffor 1998cc. DVLA delaying things as usual, there are loads of engines that are 1998cc, ford, Renault BMW.

Bleed it by disconnecting the lower rad hose, and open the bleed screw on the thermostat. Then put the hose back on, refill with new coolant leaving the bleed screw open, close the screw when coolant flows out with no air in it, then keep refilling until the bottle is full, go for a drive, let...

They sell buy it now on ebay for £10. From renault they are about £20.

Its pointless just changing the belt, as the tensioner or idler are just as likely to fail. Get a aux belt kit from Renault and make sure the belt is routed correctly.

I bet its a 1.2 8v, they go on for ever, although headgasket tends to go around 150k.

Make sure the belt is routed correctly, or by 20mm short do you mean youve put it side by side to the old belt?? If thats the case its the wrong belt. The aux belt kit should include belt, tensioner and idler. Correct routing: