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The link rod on the pedal will have popped off.

It lasts 18 months though, so it's worth the investment. I found myself bleeding the Motul 660 after each track day. Typ200 wasn't much different. £48 the SRF can be had for. The Motul was about £30 for a litre. I looked at some Endless RF650 which was £80 for a litre ?

Yeah that's the one. Brake pedal doesn't quite recover as well with Motul 660 so giving this a try.

Flushed the brake fluid with Castrol SRF and scrubbed the new track tyres in.

I bet that's well gone if you delved deeper into the inner rear quarters.

Want them smoking pretty much and then a long cool off drive.

How many stops and at what speed did you bed them in mate? I find a bit of steady driving with a few short stops to get them warm, followed by 10 stops from 100-30mph. Not slamming on though, just medium but constant pressure. Hard braking for short times generates less heat than required.

-3 is plenty, hmm.... Shouldn't be wearing the outside edge at that camber ? Can only think it's the pressure that's done it, causing the temperature rise. I'd try around 28 hot.

I don't think the centre has overheated, just overinflated. Looks to need more camber to stop the edge wear, just waiting for @Greeny. to say what camber he has.

They'll delaminate when overheated. That's what a Dunlop tech told me.

In an ideal world you'd measure tyre temperatures, but the pyrometers aren't cheap. Pressure is just a way of fine tuning to get to the temperature you're looking to achieve. So really, there's no set pressure to use. It's just whatever is needed to get into the temperature window. 70-90c is...

7746 You have to input it using the stalk control on the right of the steering wheel.

Oh, you need to pull the radio out and get a pic of the barcode on the side. If you post the pic in here i'll get a code for you.

What code?

Overheated the outside edge basically, the rubber has blistered. Not been smashing kerbs as well have you ? Wearing the centre indicates overinflated too. Can get away with less than 30psi with DZ03G's.

Not that much difference between 170 and 180 degrees in the grand scheme really.

In today's world yeah with modern dual mass items now too. I think the lightened Clio ones are about 3kg.

Cup spoiler is 3.5kg, standard spoiler is 2.5kg.

The old plate with the number at the end? The number is the regional code of where it was registered.

That's good then. Plenty to be saved there then, probably the equivalent of 12L of fuel in weight.

Removing white backgrounds all day? Yeah ?

Have the values been updated since the manual then?

@GrahamV182 do you still have to keep the interior carpet? If you do, you could in theory remove the carpet and take out the sound deadening tar panels on the floor and then refit the carpet. There's a good few kg there.

Just tidied that last one up, noticed a few stray white bits.

Let me know if you want the white text on the green centre panel making transparent.

Yeah that's my reasoning too really.

5.3kg standard.

Could get a pic of the 'guard' i made on Sunday when i do my brakes. Basically it mounts to that subframe brace bar and folds under the subframe. Just stops anything flying up and hitting the aux belt really.

My xenons are still working somehow ? My horn has packed up though. I fashioned an aluminium sheet to protect the aux belt/pulleys.

The B14 kit ride well on the Clios. Should be similar for the Skoda really. Good valving in the Bilsteins.