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No you don't need the shims, they need room to move when hot.

I’ve got some 0.8mm lying around somewhere, was thinking of just doing it on the piston side ?

What thickness Ti did you use?

Track car Vs road car.

2manycars will buy 5 ?

I don't think anyone realises how rich Englebert ? This is probably pocket change almost. I'd say go for it, there will be a few people like yourself who would be willing to pay that. I mean people pay £50k for a v6 ffs.

I wouldn't worry about it as long as the car is running fine. At least it is even across all four cylinders. Sealey won't be the most accurate gauge either.

I use their Hazsafe pre wash, much safer ?

Loads of good Autosmart stuff about.

I'd still go with the wheel bearing theory tbh. Just because it feels smooth by hand doesn't mean it seems ok, you won't be generating the forces it goes through by hand.

If it's just a road car, stick ELF NFJ in. It's adequate enough.

It's an API GL-5 spec oil, i'd recommend changing to a GL4 as that's what Renault suggest for these boxes. I use Red Line MTL, granted it's not cheap though.

Which are the lights that come on when the brake fluid is low? Worth a look. Edit: It might be the stop and handbrake light i'm thinking of.

Pump on its way I'd say. When mine went the steering was almost impossible to turn.

Yeah you can't beat airflow for cooling.

It's a poor conductor of heat though so it should stop some of the heat getting to the fluid. There's quite a few places that do the shims for 4 pot/6 pot calipers and it has been proven to stop dust boots melting on those calipers. I've read that 1mm of 6Al-4V Ti can reduce fluid temps by...

That's the idea yeah.

There should be a warranty on their work then, not including the warranty with the rest of the car.

Were the belts done before you even bought the car or did you buy it and they then did them on the basis of you agreeing a price?

I was planning on making some titanium brake pad shims to act as heat sheilds for my brother's Megane track car. Now that he's sold it i might look into making some for the Clio. It should dramatically reduce the heat being absorbed into the caliper and therefore the fluid.

No front arch liners, that's it ? Do you hold the brake quite a bit or do you stand on them and off again? Longer braking will generate more heat, but they can take about 800°c.

Here's mine which NorthloopCup did for me over a year ago. 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears and synchros were all new, plus the Quaife LSD. Red Line MTL gear oil is the best stuff for these.

It may keep them a bit cooler as the rears will be doing more braking, reducing the load the fronts have to take on their own. Don't think i've been close to cooking mine yet.

Have you got PBS pads in the front and rear? I find they need the rears to compliment the fronts. Fronts on their own probably aren't as good.

b****cks, they owe you an engine for cocking the job up. 12 months from when they did the work.

£2500 sounds reasonable. Sounds like it doesn't need any work doing to it for a while now.

Did the rear discs go back on with the metal spacer than sits behind them?

Looks quality! The edge of the heatshield near the brake reservoir cap looks sharp, watch out for that when unscrewing the cap ?

Buy a replacement, it'll just keep popping off. The ball joint inside will be worn. If you search for clutch pedal link rod for a Clio, you'll find them for sale.