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Aye, once every 4-5 years haha.

f**k that haha. 1500 would be the coarsest I'd use on paint.

Just press them harder.

Yes mate.

Some Renaults are left hand wind back. Some Meganes and Lagunas i think.

You'll need the right hand one i.e. clockwise.

The AutoGlym kit starts with 800 too. Works well and decent results.

Luckily I'm not fitting my new one with the diff in.

I know m9. Once I've done a gearbox and cambelt, i may as well open a garage.

If i was at home this weekend i could have helped, I'm WA5.... Unfortunately I'm away 😞

Maybe the piston is seized in the fully out position.

Well it should be going back anyway, so that's what you need to address. Is the handbrake off?

Piston is sticking out miles! Wind it in more.

The caliper should move on the slider bolts to allow you to get them to line up.

It's easier to Google Clio steering angle sensor and it'll bring threads up from here. The search on here isn't the best tbh.

Why is the kit a different colour?

Have a look in here http://www.cliosport.net/threads/how-to-reset-the-steering-angle-sensor-back-to-0-after-steering-wheel-change.677031/

Non genuine one?

Something to do with the coloured yellow and blue dots in that top left window. But i'm not sure exactly.

I'm wondering if it's pad deposits due to pads breaking down under the heat maybe? Maybe try a different pad just to be sure. Pagid RS-29 yellow are an endurance pad and they are very good. Not cheap though.

He needed to be wearing a HANS device in that thing IMO. If he put it off into the barrier he'd be in serious neck trouble.

Are they actually warped, as in have you tested the runout on them as standard and then again with a worn set? 3 hours doesn't sound like long to wear out a set of discs. How many track miles would that be?

That guide is ok apart from he used the cheap locking tools that bend. This may also help https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8a6L1Tl3iG3RWNUOFU0bWlPQkE

Remember which coil leads came from each plug too, otherwise it'll run rough. Not too difficult to work out with the oem coils as they are different lengths, so will only reach so far to each spark plug.

With the engine out it will be a piece of piss compared to working on it in the car. If you can follow instructions it's a simple process in essence, if everything is done in order and as it should be. You'll be ok.

If you start the car after you've finished and find that it is idling quite high, it means there's an air leak so you just need to make sure the inlet is bolted down properly.

Yes it's the only way to get to them. Just a case of disconnecting all the sensors that are plugged into the inlet, unbolting it and lifting it off. Be careful when bolting the inlet back on as those bolts don't need much to snap. Torque to 11Nm if you can.

They take 3.1 but you'll not get all that in as a bit of the old stuff will still be there. I've got 4 bottles of MTL for my newly rebuilt box.

So you could be a little under or over depending on how much of the old oil got drained out :tongueclosed:

I take it you still had the filler plug out though so you knew when it was at the right level?