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Use the strongest cutting polish and pad and make sure you prime it properly. An X of polish on the pad and then rubbed in by hand will be enough to prime it. Work it on speed 5-6 until it goes clear. That should get rid of most of the deeper marks. Depending on how deep they are you might not...

I'm not sure the AF range. What is their strongest cutting polish? You may need another polish instead like one of the Menzerna range.

Yeah, he'll be testing them probably (he's their test driver). Most of the fast cars usually respect the normal road cars, just don't hold them up for ages otherwise some get arsey. He's sound though. Tbh you could be flat out and just move off line slightly and they'll be on their way, you...

More AF pads or Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads.

Oh haha 😂 They won't be able to go that quick if there's traffic. Go speak to Oli too, he'll give you a few tips. Nice guy.

76! That's nothing, been on there with 85 a few times :wink: It's not too bad as everyone won't be out all the time. Stay till the end as well, we have the best sessions then when loads have gone home. Who's down to drive the Mono? Probably won't be as quick as Oli Webb.

Could have been corrected with a bootfull of right foot i reckon. You can see how the back steps out over the dirt with little correction being made to recover it. Feel sorry for the owner.

You're only 1:30 hours from EFI Parts. Take it there to get it mapped.

Cheers mate :up:

What setting did you use on the multimeter mate, i need to test one on my mates car. Is it Volts or Ohms?

It's ready to use yes.

Over 5k will be why. They've tested that wrong.

Out of interest did you let your car warm up before the noise test, only because I've had 98db cold and 95db when up to temp. Makes a difference.

These

@.J.a.m.e.s. has some rear seats going for cheap, which will be a good start for you.

It's pearlescent and it's a 3 stage paint. Nightmare to match, but it can be done.

The tapered bit goes against the hub Dan. I've got 5mm spacers on mine and that's how i have it. It's flat on the other side then for the wheel to sit against.

Pre cat lambda affects the running of the car as said. Post cat is just emissions monitoring.

Holes will be in the skirts when they arrive, just mark that up as said. Use peel rivets instead if the usual type, otherwise they might crack the plastic or pull through. They look like this

What mileage is yours on? See if you can get one with similar mileage on.

Dead dial then or unplugged as you say.

Do the dials work in test mode? Hold the button in on the end of the right stalk and turn the key to ignition, they should go through a full test.

Need to do an official test to see exactly how long. May even try a few layers in between drying or using a bit of heat to cure it faster.

Not the 6 months claimed put it that way. Maybe a month or so and that was prepped properly, degreased and IPA.

Torquing hub nuts correctly I take it? 175nm rear, 280nm front.

Nice! Needs xenons though... Not as simple as plug and play though on these. @Nickson could advise if you wanted to retrofit them.

Solution Finish works well.

Might need to lever/stand on the wishbones to line the hub-strut holes up when putting it back together. It'll be fighting the anti roll bar a bit.

They're not as grippy as when i first fitted them, but it's now a consistent pedal on track and more than good enough. They have a flat coefficient level so they shouldn't fade as they get hotter, should stay the same. If they feel like they are then it's probably the fluid.

I can't get ABS to kick in on mine in the dry mate, too much grip. Stick Motul RBF 600/660 in, much better.