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Those yellow bushes looked too crushed as well. When you put that top nut back on, just do it enough until the top washer stops spinning. The bushes should just be pinched.

Hold the shaft as you turn the 17mm nut. Quicker with a buzz gun if you have one.

Pure Motorsport do them as a kit with the bolts too, but they're not camber ones. You'd need to get the camber shims as well. Spacers http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=263&model=6 Shims http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio_shop.php?cat=1&model=6&page=6

Rear camber shims he's on about. You might not need longer bolts, but the ones currently in there won't come out without a fight usually. So you may need replacements anyway.

I meant the bolt being an Allen socket. Mine has a 17mm hex bolt head, so I can get my impact gun on it.

That's a really shite design, the bolt should be more substantial than that. That's only coming out one way I reckon.

Find a decent shell and K swap the engine then an EK/EG would be sound.

I'd have an EP3 as a track car any day. So tuneable with engine mods, suspension, there's loads of parts around for them.

Both quick cars!

110amp yes.

Nowt wrong with that 😂

Lol good. I'm not sure if the rear beam differs between Cup and Non Cup, it's just the Cup has a thicker stub axle block iirc. That shouldn't effect why the beam wouldn't drop low enough to fit/remove the springs.

We are on about the rear now aren't we?

Interesting one that is mate.

I've never had a problem... Stick the top rubbers onto the body first, and with the lower shock bolts out the beam will drop (support with a jack) low enough to get the springs in. Raise it back up with the jack and fit the bolts.

Fronts are correct, just make sure the springs are seated correctly in the top and bottom plates.

Catcam 428 i'd say. Looking at about £600 for them.

I'm guessing they are negative from factory.

@NorthloopCup is an expert on all this :tongueout:

Sorry i meant i'm close to the ET37 of the 182 16" wheels. Mine is a 182 also. I use 195/50/15 AD08R's which are probably equivalent to a 205 width. 172 Cup wheels are ET35/36 i think, so that's probably the most you'd want to go.

I use 5mm spacers on the front just for clearance peace of mind (and it looks a bit better) when running -1.5-2deg camber. I'm using Speedline 2118's though which are ET43, so my offset is pretty much inline with oem 16's now.

Yeah, that'll move!

Oh aye they will if pushed, but after a few hundred miles there should be enough material transferred onto the disc.

Aye, when Brenda from Preston gets new pads fitted to her Toyota Yaris, the garage won't say "now listen Brenda, you've got to do 20 30mph-10mph stops to get your brakes to work properly" 😂

OEM pads? Just drive normally with a few dabs on the pedal from 30mph to 10mph. Nothing special with road pads really. That's what i do anyway.

If it's faded there's a good chance it's a single stage paint, so it won't have a clear coat they use a hardener instead. Much like the faded red Vauxhalls you see. Ps. Is the side skirt meant to be that shape or is it damaged?

By magic you mean all the burgers will get eaten, all the beers drank and an engine fitted backwards 😂

Should slot in with ease, like so.

I'd have to remove that if i had one. Maybe stick it back on myself in a better place because OCD.

Nice motors. Is it me or does the M140i badge looks like they've just stuck it anywhere? I'd have it lower down near the ridge line of the boot and to the right more.