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id say it doesnt have to be changed at same time depends on how it fells when ur driving like to much slak in the cable a new one wouldnt do it any harm and it would be easier doing it whilst gearbox is out bit more room for you to route cabe around
ull need a 21mm spanner and 21mm socket for the damper to hub on the front then its 21mm for top mount to then just whip that out and rear dampers it an 18mm which bolts the damper to the axle and a 16mm for the rear top mount only pain in the arse is getting height right and how u want it which...
i do honestly think my manifold is rubbing on my subframe abit ill have to do engine mounts then see what happens from there cuz its to weird the noise only happens from 5000rpm when the car is under alot of load
nah its only when i give it beans then 5000rpm and after i get a gay noise but when driving normal and fast all i hear is roadnoise due to being stripped out but thats it i get a clonk at the mo which i think is down to my engine mounts but im getting k-tecs uprated ones tomoz :)
hi all my mate has a 182 at the weekend we fitted k-tecs new desing top mounts to cure the nasty knocking noise but my mate has had a problem for a while which is when he has been out and the car gets hot he gets a clonking noise when steering aswell a nasty creak when steering anyone with any...
ive taken out the stupid acoustic valve and that give enough room to feed the pipe down there and if you take out the fog light you can stick it there or if you want to keep fogs you can sit it in that wheel arch thats where the standard feed is