Search results

Cheers, will dispute it. Out of interest is that normal for springs on Clio 172s ?

They don't drop out but are moveable by hand when lifted, you can spin them in the seat. He said if you can move them by hand then it's possible if i went over a bump they could come out from seat and pierce tyre. I did buy aftermarket springs so maybe the spring rate isn't correct . Kilen I think

They failed me on both my front tyres too which are only worn on the inside of the tyre. I thought 75% of the tyre had to be worn below 1.6mm? Test centre was a national tyres due to proximity to work.

The mot failure code was 5.3.1 (a) my reg if you want to check the mot failure is FP02 ULT Nearside Front Coil spring insecure (5.3.1 (a) (i)) Offside Front Coil spring insecure (5.3.1 (a) (i))

Hi all, I've been working on a project car and put in some 172 Cup shocks and coil springs a while ago. Put the car in for an mot today and it failed on coils springs being lose and easily moveable. The springs do rotate when there's no weight on the spring but youve got to put in some effort...

got it sorted in the end. jacked the car up higher , bought a long pry bar. got some help holding pry bar down while i vice gripped clamps to subframe. removed pry bar stuck bolt in and tightened. took 20 mins to do both side once you know how !

Don't think longer bolts will help. The problem is the hole on the clamp won't align with the subframe mounting point until the clamp is fully seated

I've propably spent close to that time so far ! I got it closest with a g clamp but it just started to slip off and took all my effort to wind it at that point. I don't see how I could leverage the clamp with a bar ? Loosing the will to live haha.

I've just measured the bar and its under 25mm, see pic. Also got pic of sideview

Hi All, I'm having a problem fitting inner arb bushes. i first bought some aftermarket bushes, had issues installing so bought oem. I got the exact same part number as the bushes that came out ,7700847383 , and i cannot get the clamp back on that goes around the bushing. I've attempted to...

my issue ended up being throttle pedal , i replaced it with a used one and was still broken, ended up looking elsewhere for problems couldn't find any, replaced again with a used one and my problems went away.

common problem is wires below the battery tray/exhaust mount rub on metal and become exposed causing issues like throttle potentionmeter and throttle body issues. check them out first. you need to remove airbox etc. and unwrap the wires to inspect. it's where the loom comes out of ecu , down the...

try switching your lambda sensors around.

does it idle higher when the engine is cold ?

it's been a while since i posted but I have sorted my electrical fault now so thought i would update my thread with a conclusion. focusing on the pedal potentionmeter circuit track 1 fault recorded i decided to test every possible wire between the pedal wires and the throttle body. i tested ...

i think the same logic applies with the solid red dot. the electrical fault that other people were experiencing resolved in their car being a non starter, or sometimes starting and sometimes not, but your electrical fault is not as serious and therefore not affecting the starting and running of...

there's quite a few threads on this issue on the forums , i replied last week to a similar thread. see forum post below which explains the red light, in short it's an electrical fault in the system somewhere https://www.cliosport.net/threads/bypassing-the-immobiliser-on-a-ph2-172.612962/

odd, did you buy the service through ebay or directly? if ebay ,maybe you can open a dispute

i've used them before, really helpful and really fast service. i think it's a one/two man operation though so it's possible they've taken the day off :)

sorry I was doubting myself from last post about what i had said so to double check searched the forum and i was ! solid immob isn't a fault with immob and it will try and crank :) see this thread https://www.cliosport.net/threads/bypassing-the-immobiliser-on-a-ph2-172.612962/ MickKPM commented...

solid red is immobilizer, wont start until that light goes out regardless of whether or not there is a crank sensor issue. have you got another key you can try?

hey all , thought i would update with the latest and get some advice! fitted used throttle pedal, no joy! still idling at 2000rpm+ . turning the car off and on eventually the car would idle at 800rpm, weird. reset all fault codes and let it run for 10 mins, fault codes that came back up were...

haha, crack the whip! if he doesn't bring out 2 timing tools, one to lock cams gearbox side and one to lock cam sprockets, timing belt side, then you can guarantee they aren't doing it right :)

did your problems start after timing belt change? :)

you've changed basically everything so i would get timing checked/compression test. might be ok at higher rpm due to dephaser altering timing which is helping with it revving.

when you say juddering do you mean reluctant to rev or do you mean lumpy? if its the latter could it be upper engine mount/ dogbone mount/ transmission mount?

DF128 vehicle speed sensor DF105 IMMOBILISER WARNING LIGHT CIRCUIT

that's the one

just a quick update. i reset all of the stored faults with clip and electrical fault light has disappeared. faults stored were: DF057 - Upstream oxygen sensor circuit DF125 - Pedal potentionmeter circuit track 1 DF129 - Pedal potentionmeter circuit DF019 - Dipped healights information circuit...

if you jump fuel pump relay with a piece of wire does it send fuel to rail?