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Yeah I realise that, but I think it should have been part of the terms for entry of a flier that it had a Mk1 and a Mk2 on it as I think it would put new Mk1 owners off a bit. I made this point at the time though and don't want to take this off topic.
Can't see it having that much of an effect on the tyres. Compared to the forces on the tyre when going round a corner at 40mph, the wear when just turning it at rest is next to nothing.
I know that if you get RSi carriers and discs then you can put the RSi brakes straight on as the calipers are pretty much the same. As I said on WC I will check with the 13's I have in the garage tomorrow, I very much doubt they will clear TBH, but I'm not sure about 14's.
Not sure how you check, but by all accounts you are as well just getting another driveshaft to save pissing about with the gaiter etc. I think reconed shafts can be bought relatively cheaply.
I'm not sure of the exact details as I've not changed one before but you will definately need the inlet manifold and the TB as teh three bolt TB had the air inlet temperature sensor within the TB but the two bolt one has it in the inlet manifold itself. I'm not sure if the connection differ too...
Great to see that 0001 will be there. Unfortunately I won't be there to have a snoop around but still good to know the club will have it. I agree in a sense that it will stand out more on the CS stand than it would on the WC stand. Also, I have to agree with the point Scott made about the CS...
Could anyone tell me if the lambda sensor on a Mk1 1.4RT is the same as that found on a Mk1 1.8 16v?? I think they are looking at the dialogies, but I want to double check.
If it makes a difference the Lambda on my 1.4 is located at the bottom of the manifold rather than at the bottom of the...
If it's for a 1.4RT then you can fit a TB from a 1.8 SPi Laguna iirc. It's not quite a staight fit though and not really worth it for the gains without further headwork etc from what I've heard.
It will fit but I'm not totally sure about how the gear ratios compare, iirc 1st to 4th are similar ratios but 5th is longer on the willy box. Willy boxes are stronger than the 16v ones and therefor a better option.
Is it a Mk1 or Mk2? Are you 100% sure it's not been like that since fitted?
The only guess I could have if it was a mk2 and it hadn't been like that since fitted would be a snapped spring as shocks shouldn't affect ride height.
Also, nothing stupid like a flat tyre is it? You never know...
The thing is though that you need to support the engine on a trolley jack itself because you are remocing the gearbox mount. I was hoping there would be a way to do it using only th one jack but as I need to support the engine as well I think I'll need two.
Thanks people. Not going to take the engine out as I don't have a hoist and it's possible to do with the engine in place. I'll get started on removing the driveshafts and everything else today and I'll maybe see if a mate has a trolley jack I can borow for the box.
Hopefully going to get started on this job tomorrow but have one question. Is it possible to do with just one jack or will I need two?
I know I'll need one to support the engine but can the gearbox be removed without using a jack to support it. My plan was to undo all the bolts holding the...
How can I stop the alarm going off when doing this? Any time I have disconnected it the alarm goes off adn I usually re-connect it as the alarm shows no signs of stopping. I'm going to have to remove it completely tomorrow and wondered if there is any way of stopping it going off? or will I...
Yup, after a few drinks as a passenger in a car being driven quickly it can seem VERY quick, lol. I have noticed in th past though that cars always seem quicker when your not driving. When I am a passenger in my dads car it always seems much quicker when he puts his foot down that when I'm...
I'm not totally sure about the RSi but I think what I'm about to say still applies. Firstly the engine does not have to come out, the box can be slid to the side to give enough room to change the clutch. Secondly, iirc the normal problem isn't actually the clutch when the cables keep snapping...
I just used the old gaskets on mine but put plenty exhaust paste all round the join and I've had no problems. Make sure you have new bolts to use for putting it back on. It migh be easier to just cut the old ones off if they are being a bugger.
If you just go over tyo retro-renault.co.uk and PM someone called Neal about it then it's the same guy. I think it will be a lot cheaper than renault - he doesn't really advertise them but he says in that thread I linked to that he's willing to do them for people at a price , but much cheaper...
The 1.2 Clio turbo would still be s**t slow compared to a 172/182 though TBH. I would say you should just get a 172/182 engine put in yours if you like it - or turbo one of them and then drop it in.
Too low???? ;)
Youre definately able to to do it at intervals of less than 40mm, it should be possible to do it in 3mm intervals. The way I did mine was to raise the hub to where I wanted it then I tried to push the bar back in. At first they wouldn't go in so what I did was to rotate it one...
If it stops at 4.5k are you sure it's not your rev counter thats wrong? I know it's usually pretty clear by listening but someone had this problem before - though the power loss seems to suggest there is a genuing problem.
Try asking over on retro-renault.co.uk as they are well into their...