Search results

Have a look HERE. Most of what is said as been mentioned above but it could be usefull anyway. It's the main problem with working on these cars that everything tends to be seized and rusted. I did one of these the other week and it took me about 5 minutes as it wasn't seized at all, but I...

If you can't afford new shocks as well your best bet is just to lower it about 40mm. It won't be doing the shocks any favours but they should still last longer that they would dropped 60mm. The other option would be to drop it 60mm and then replace the shocks when you can afford to. As long...

lower it first. IMO if you can't afford a full kit then just go for springs at the moment. If you can afford it though definately go for a full kit.

I've heard of a few people who have driven with just three bolts on the rears for 1000's of miles. If you can avoid it then I wouldn't drive with just three though, especially as you have the spacers. Pop down to renault/halford or somewhere in the morning and get yourself another wheel bolt...

Don't worry about it spinning - they're supposed to. Best bet is plenty WD40 and try to open up the gap using a chisel or something similar. As I said if you look just at the end of the thread where the track rod end screws on to there is a bit where you can hold it with a spanner so that it...

Willy is faster and has more torque throughout the rev range. Personally my ideal choice would be a valver with a willy widetrack and willy engine as you can then mod it any way you like, but with a willy I don't think I could bring myself to alter it from standard. As a straight choice though...

Did you manage to get the bolt that clamps it on out ok? If you got that out try putting a chissel or something in the gap and lever it open. Then spray a good amount of WD40 in there and try again. The also you can use a spanner or something on the part it's screwed on to as thats free to...

Don't sell - I want to see two engines!!!!!:evil:

not sure mate but it might help if you say what model its for - as I'm not sure how much difference there is across the range.

TBH it all depends on if you can do it yourself IMO. If you can do it yourself then it makes life a lot easier as there are not labour cost. You could get all the parts needed to do it for £200 if you look in the right places and if thats all the costs involved it's very reasonable for an...

Probably the dogbone mount. You can get them for about £15 from the local factor, but they can wear quickly I've been told. I believe you can strengthen them yourself by filling it with tiger seal where the rubber of the mount is.

How would he be looking to kill himself???

yup, as edde said. I didn't count turns though - I just measure it. Very straightforward if it's not seized, but a different story completely if it is seized.

do a search. This has come up hundreds of times before - bery common on Mk2 clios I believe.

pretty straight forward. You would need a valver engine, suspension and brakes at the very minimum. You can re-use the RT engine mounts, gearbox and driveshafts - but I wouldn't expect them to hold out too long. Best bet would be to get new gearbox, mounts and driveshafts as well.

sorry I might not have made it clear. If I leave it at the garage then I don't need to pay for any re-test - just the cost of fixing the thing it failed on. However if I took the car away from the garage and fixed it myself I would then have to pay for a full re-test. it used to be that most...

Under the new regulations I don't think you can get free retests. On certain things you get 24hrs to replace them and they re-test just those items for free, but this isn't covered as one of those items unfortunately as I would have relaced them myself if that was the case. I'm only a poor...

Just heard back from the garage about the 1.4 Clio's MOT. It failed on the anti-roll bar links being cracked on both sides or something. Labour was £40 for both sides so it's not worth me fixing it myself as I would then have to pay £44 anyway for a re-test. A bit annoying as I had thought...

I don't know if it will. IIRC the mountings are different on the 16v and the 1.4. I'll go out and have a look at the 16v later if I get a chance to see how it compares to the 1.4.

white looks really good, but quite a few people are getting them now so it depends on how original you want to be.

looks really nice mate. I usually don't really like turbines, but they look spot on in that photoshop.

^^^^^ Any MOT testers on here? The general concesus on other forums is that they will probably fail, but the garage I am taking it to has agreed to have a look before the actual test and let me know either way. Opinions?

I've got the MOT for the 1.4 tomorrow and was checking it over earlier but noticed a slight leak from the front shock absorbers. You can see some pictures HERE. Do you reckon they would be OK to pass, or could they be failed? I've had a look through some stuff online which says it can be...

what you doing there? When did you leave halfrauds? BTW liking the ouch sticker. Wondered what the hell it was in the pictures you put up on the net.

Spotted your car outside the vauxhall garage in the sighthill industrial estate. Looks really nice from what I saw when I drove past.

I had the same problem when refitting my old hub. I phoned a few garages to ask if they would torque it up for me and they all, without fail, said just to do it up as tight as I can with a breaker bar as they don't bother to torque them up when they do them. They only torque them up if its a...

Don't know TBH mate, but would you not be better with a valver box anyway as I would have thought the ratios on the diesel will be different and could slow it down? If not a valver JB3 box you could try a JC5 from a williams which are much more expensive, but they are better boxes.

Is there a specific torque the subframe bolts should be set to? or should I just do them up tight as fook? Had a look through the haynes and can't see them. Thanks. EDIT: Mk1 1.8 16v btw

both sides are jacked up. TBH I don't know if it was the same on the other side as I only undid the top bolt there so I could remove the driveshaft.

When I was replacing the gearbox on my 16v over the past weeks or so (not had a chance to work on it properly) I noticed that theres something a bit strange when connecting the hub to the strut on the passenger side. On my other clio you just have to push the hub back a little and it lined up...