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Which 'polish' are you using? If it contains abrasives then keep it away from the vinyl.
The plastic bits may correct if they are smooth with a gloss finish. Again tread carefully though, start with SRP
You don't need a cutting pad to remove buffer trails. It's just a compound which hasn't been broken down properly on top if the paint with very minor indents into the clear. It should sort with a finishing pad and a light cutting polish like Megs 205.
Should remove no more than 1-2 microns...
You said "torque wins races"
You mean "torque won that race" because the Clio driver didn't know how to drive their car?
Who cares anyway? I know what I'd rather be driving
You haven't been around a track with SteBurns in a 197 though, have you?
Plenty of torque in front of us and behind us, but they all got dicked within 2 laps.
Do you mean races, or do you mean heroic dual carriageway drag races?
The other problem with Daisy is you can't really use it on interiors - its okay for arches, but I'm not keen otherwise.
The Megs one is great but pricey when compared to G101 or G202, as you are getting 5L for less than the 3.78L of the Megs.
Surfex is probably the best of all of the APC's...
Yeah pretty much.
It's maybe worth buying a spray wax/quick detailer to recharge the finish after washing, but that's optional really
How often do you think you will be washing your car?
Both are superb - the 476 will last a little longer, but the 845 is a LOT easier to use, and looks a little better IMHO.
I'd go 845 personally. If you want to add more durability then use something like Carlack NSC in place of the P21 Cleanser, which will add it's own layer of protection...
Definitely, and no hologramming etc to contend with, or gassing, which is a bugger on the higher end nuba stuff like Glasur and Vintage
Sealants are the future.
I still think sealants are better for winter - something like Duragloss, Zaino or Britemax. Their water repellency properties' make them much better at keeping a car cleaner, for longer.
Colli is the best of the 'waxes' though
The 'nuba theoretically relates directly to the durability, which is does in most cases - 100% nuba is sold, and it's this 'hardness' which theoretically dictates how durable a wax is, but the more nuba present, the harder the wax is to make and therefore the more expensive it is.
However...
It doesn't need blending, just get the rest of the car machine polished for £100 and it will look fine.
You shouldn't be paying more than £250-£300 for a bumper and bonnet respray.
Just switch the P21 Wax for Colli 476S or 845 for durability over Winter.
In terms of prep, yes you should buy a Clay Kit (AG one is ideal from your local rep for £15), then use the P21 Cleanser, then the Colli wax of choice.
1000P is good, but it's not as durable as Colli, not even close...
Do you mean these which are CHEAPER and IDENTICAL and have been available for years?
http://www.motorgeek.co.uk/hose-blocker-p-330.html
;)
Very useful tbh
No, Dom doesn't believe in it as it can be measured in so many ways, and is over hyped/over marketed.
Supernatural lasts well... Purple Haze Pro is decent too (but that's a hybrid wax with sealant properties) but I'd still opt for something like Colli for Winter.
I'd be aiming for best...
Rain Forest Rub (and most of the standard Dodo's) aren't massively durable, so not an ideal choice given that Winter is looming. Onyx is nicer to use and is more durable, so a better choice overall IMO.
Oh and stone chips are easily sorted - touch up kit from Paint4U, wet sanded back then...