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mmmm was thinking F1's what they like for wear..... bearing in mind this year i have 12k under my belt and 7 tyres (one burst)

need two front tyres ive had toyos, yoko's, pilot exalto's and uniroyal rain sports fancy a change what can i get not bothered about cost as i get them trade, what would one recommend ? i drive my car HARD

cup - in the gearbox (it is near the manifold) normal 172/182&182 cup is abs sensor 172 phase 1 some with a gearbox sensor some with abs sensor

inside the drivers door look for the following codes cb1n - mk2 cup cb0m - mk2 full fat 172 cb22 - 182 full fat

if it fails the mot due to a de-cat then your insurance is void blah blah blah i wouldnt tell them but its up to you

for the speed sensor to work edde's way you would need the bosch abs computer to be plumbed into the loom the speed signal that come from the abs sensor are converted by the bosch abs computer to a signal the ecu can understand, you may be able to do it with some resistors etc

The ECU will open the injectors so many times per second to let a specified ammount of fuel into the engine so it runs as near as possible to the 14:1 ratio, if you were to fit a larger injector (bigger holes) it would let more fuel in and run rich the oxygen sensor would realise this and tell...

No abs you will need a phase 1 loom with the gearbox speedo sender and phase 1 gearbox , edde suggested the 182 box because of the diff retainer but you can convert the phase 1 gear bos with the 182's diff retainer (i did ) that will be the answer . when you want to get started give me a shout...

how would you get the speedo to work with a phase 1 loom but no abs? and a 182 gearbox

problems you will have and have to think about 1 power steering - your is hydro so it will be easy my conversion runs the electric rack (it took me weeks to get it to work) 2 fuel lines - as yours is a phase 1 it may have a return line if you run a phase 1 engine loom you may have to fit a...

do you have both sides jacked up? if not then the anti roll bar is working against you and causing what you describe above

if you ran a mk2 172 cup engine (the easiest to convert) then you would need to change the whole dash phase 2 spec low mile phase ones are hard to come by but you could have a phase 2 engine with phase one loom ecu uch and throttle body all the engines are the same some phase 1 (ph-quick) have...

yes the 172 engine is a good 50kg more you would need a higher poundage spring the bolt spacing on 172 is 54mm your will most likley be 58mm

If you buy one from matt he will only sell you a low miler 20k or so, regards to modding the block would be an idea to get used to the power before doing anything to it, then rebuilding it over a winter

The track is wider due to the hubs the wishbones and drive shafts are the same lenth

what would you be doing to the block?

you need higher rated springs but you can buy these for £30 each

the 1.6 shafts wont fit into the 172 gearbox or hubs you need to change the engine gearbox engine loom uch ecu decoder ring shafts front brakes, hubs and suspension internal wiring loom clocks fuel pump radiator hoses front brake hoses matt supplies the whole kit for £1500+ vat the reason...

the plug popped out or the HT lead? if so the noise you can hear is it running on 3 cylinders

F7r edde? its not a case of buying an engine and sticking it in the mk2 clio works on a multiplexed wiring system it would be much harder to fit an F7 engine than it would a F4R

the whole real axle will fit done the conversion myself you will need a pair of hand brake cables unless you can salvage some from the donor car its easy to fit only 4 bolts and the 2 that hold the rear struts on

The mount is aluminum so it pretty hard to weld, if you buy the poly bush for the dogbone it stresses the other bushes more, i have the poly one it does a good job and i dont mind paying for new upper bushes but if you do then stick to the rubber one @ £30 a pop all in

has it snapped or have the bushes just gone?

Re: Fed at Yozza Sport.... Fred and yoz will help anyone with anything they are nice guys and i glad their business is taking off as there are not many nice / helpful / go out their way people out there

I dont know who was that silver phase 1 with a GDI sticker was that the one on TB's? didnt gain on me much considering then started getting silly so i let him pass then he span out

Its me mate, thanks for lending me the water my car was a state!

you need a sandwich plate that will fit between the oil filter and block and an oil pressure sender

Seen this, he has a windscreen sticker "renault sports club" and completley sprayed rear lights you cannot see the brakes in the day

does who?

Renault make the car like that for comfort and safety and for the longevity of components such as wheel bearings driveshfts ball joints and track rod ends. lowering the car stresses all these components and eventually they will fail before a non lowered car. a good example of this is the CUP...