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No choice but to do that, just a little tight, but elbow grease is the only answer.

Yes, you are right, the pulleys are meant to be floating. Just that the crankshaft one wasn't. So had to take the belt off and get a pry bar on the teeth of the bottom pulley and it slowly came free. Looks like there was residue of what looks like red loctite around the inside of that pulley...

Hi all. I have the belt on and initial tension set. The manual says to rotate six revolutions, presumably to let the belt settle in? Maybe it's obvious, but I should take the TDC pin out to do this? I would guess the pistons would move, but the camshafts are still set by the camshaft tool, so no...

Ok, calmed down a bit after a rest, back to the warzone. I will go to Halfords and pick up some M7 nuts, and attempt the two nut trick to try and free that stud. Looks like they are M7 x 25 bolts, so will just go on the internet to get some. Does anyone if these are the same bolts for the sump...

Just spent the last three and a half hours taking ogg the water pump. I officially hate this car. Once this is all done, I will go and wrap it around a tree. Never getting a Renault ever again. How come none of the guides around mention that the water pump pulley doesn't really come out, not...

Is it not that one in the first diagram, no. 5, 7703002949? As it seems to go into the power steering bracket on the end?

Ok, whipped out the Dialogys. It looks like the part number is 77 03 002 949. This is a flanged hex head bolt rather than an E12, and some images online suggest that too. Even looking at my replacement aux tensioner, there is now a hex head bolt instread of a E12, so must have changed for...

Well yeah of course, but what size?

It's a Ph2 bracket. So it is just an M8 bolt? Length?

Hi again, Second day of this odyssey, and I'm getting almost to a point where I can actually start looking at the timing belt. The crank pulley and lower timing belt covers are the only obstacles in that regard. I'm ignoring the elephant in the room of the water pump. Access really is tight! I'm...

Hi all, Am about to embark on the cambelt change, and just wanted to know more for future reference, how do you drain the coolant without making an absolute mess everywhere. Was able to squeeze a pair of knipex pliers onto the clamp and remove the hose, but the chassis is right under, and the...

I would have thought there's hardly any difference. I retrofitted cruise control into my wife's 172, and that entailed a different squib for the steering wheel to allow for the extra buttons on the steering wheel, extra buttons to turn on the cruise control where the ESP buttons and stuff are...

Hi all, Went bananas again this morning. Quick squirt with WD40 on connectors and bulb holder and seemed fine again. She'll let me know once she's home if it's held up. Regarding the solder, do you mean dab a bit on the crimped end, or the connector end itself? Might have to resort to splicing a...

Thanks all, popped off that bit of plastic, gave them a wiggle, dollop of grease and it seems fine. Must have been some water or moisture arcing within the connector. I'll try the solder should the problem ever persist.

Hi all, Wife's Ph2 172 has the usual issue of the fog light coming up due to the rear lights. It's now isolated to the left side cluster/wiring, but is getting to the point of comedic, especially when reverse is involved, where the brakes then turn all lights on dimly, and indicating then goes...

Yes, was going to mention the sensor, as some quick swotting suggests that code 180 is the passenger side sensor. Good job thus far, given that seems to be the only code left, I'm sure you've nailed the rest of it! That sensor is the last possible thing by the looks of it. Given it's location...

I would think so. The light on usually points to dodgy connection(s) which would mean they wouldn't work anyway, but I suspect the computer would disable the rest of them? Just a guess.

Yes, that's how my driver's seat looks. They've cut the wires near the plug, and hopefully should have just connected them together, just bypassing the connector. I've just used mate n lok connectors to repair them. Not sure why these connectors cause so much problems. If I had to guess, the...

I knew this would be asked one day. I made a thread about that black connector: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/airbag-seat-connectors.790282/ You need a small flat something, like a screwdriver, and wedge it where the pic shows, then they should pull apart. Definitely looks like the grey...

Ok, forgot to take pics when the passenger wheel was off! Scoured this site and have found something from the cambelt guide: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/cambelt-auxbelt-dephaser-pulley-guide.437872/ Those pics above look like it. Passenger one just looks like it is flapping about...

Hi all, Noticed when taking off the front wheel arches that on the passenger side there is a bit of foam, presumably insulation, just flapping around. Didn't see one for the driver side. I haven't seen this on any of the parts diagrams whilst perusing the Dialogys, so not sure where or how...

I made the exact same mistake with ours. Gentle hose down with gunk. Didn't even clean it very well. Was misfiring all the time. Took out three injectors, and the spark plugs had rusty threads as mentioned, with wet HT leads down the spark plug holes. Brake/machine/parts cleaner, scrubbing and...

I had something similar, where it looked like the stud itself had disappeared. What I used was a self tapping screw, No.12 (~5.5mm) and some clips designed for heatshields, which I got from Renault. It kinda just screws onto the stud. Part number 77 03 080 115. Given the fit was pretty good, I...

195/50/15 tyres are always going to be cheaper, to the point where you could get AD08r's or something else silly and still probably be better off. That to me would be sufficient enough. Would there be any difference between say 195/50/15 to 205/45/16? Thoeretically, but you're literally talking...

Hi all, Mucking around with the car, and have taken off the front wheel arches and bumper to see what lurks underneath. I'll need replacement front wheel arch bits to the bumper, as they're both in different states of destruction. When putting the bumper back on though, there is a gap between...

Yup, if you want to be sure, you can place the switch over the contacts and press it. The LED should flash. Couple of blobs over those points was sufficient in my case, and I'm absolutely useless with a soldering iron.

Yeah, be careful because if the switch has come loose, it could go flying and it's tiny enough to be a mission to find. Happened to me! The board is kept in place with what looks like a silicone mould. Bit of dexterity with a soldering iron did the trick though. *** Oops, see you've done it ***

What's the question? That might be more helpful.

Hi all, As I mentioned in an earlier thread somewhere, the seats on the wife's Clio has had repairs in a past life, presumably because of the original connectors going a bit naff. Looks like it was a quick solder and tape job. Whilst it was al ok, it does mean removal of the seats was a bit of a...

Was thinking about this myself, as mine is there, but looks wedged into the car in such a way that it's pinched and doesn't look correct at all. Will have to check whether it's connected to this acoustic valve, or whether it's still there! There are indeed two pipes going into the airbox, but...