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you probably could; can't actually remember if i did or not. you'd likely need a jack to lift it to get the bolt back in though

i don't know why there's so much trouble with Greenstuffs (got throught three sets on my last car and quite liked them), but they're probably best avoided due to all of this variation

- up on stands under the sills (not the beam!), high enough to allow the wheels to drop right down once dampers disconnected (don't have to take wheels off, but might help). ed. actually - you need to do that for the springs, not the dampers, so should be ok with stands either side of beam - WD...

are the hubs further out on some? could be why there appear to be different length track rods ed. timing error. not sure how you'd go about attacking a stubborn track rod

here it is: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=418805&highlight=smi+trw maybe you can get away with changing the track rods?

may be wrong but i thought they were all the same lock-to-lock (is it 2.7 turns?), but that there are four different manufacturers (TRW, SMI, can't remember others - Fred posted a list of the part numbers a while ago) i don't know how those four racks differ feel your pain if it's got to...

could be lots of things but if you start with the free-to-try stuff, it might sort it out before you have to spend any money - try checking pressures, swapping the Michelins onto the front, clean pads/calipers, wheel balance (cheap); pretty much as already suggested really then you're onto...

i've checked my Willans and think the buckles are a different construction, thankfully that's bad if they came out of the box like that - in a way it's lucky it's gone as it has good luck with Tweeks, be interesting to hear how you get on

i see what car.crash is suggesting - does look as though the trim has come away from the steel; unless the steel has also broken? presumably the belts were threaded in such a way that the plastic acted as a friction brake. can't really tell without more info either way, they're designed to...

Tiscali are rubbish; getting what i'm paying for, but they're supposed to have upped it to 8meg this month, due to the TalkTalk switch - hasn't happened going to give BE a go soon

that's^ what i'd been thinking, having had a look at mine i don't think the belt angle is relevant - seems (from Mark's top pic) that the belt has been looped back against the plastic trim? the belts only run against the steel on mine seems odd that it's unravelled itself, though? i'd defo...

the buckles shouldn't snap though? i reckon you'd be able to huff about that and be seen right

ahaha! i'm going through a lazy patch; it might stick for a while - haven't decided yet

jeez:dead: what make is it? can't see whoever it is quibbling over replacement; you'd hope not anyway

'flakey'! bless see him occasionally up at the Compass

if you can get at enough of the thread from underneath, try wire brush/wd, and then wind it up by locking a couple of nuts onto the thread

think i must have seen your car on the front - i don't live far at all are the Voisey Bros still in the workshop? i know Kev Brown's gone (went to school with him, and irritated him for years for requests for random 205 parts!)

can you get to the thread underneath the car, or is the beam/tank/etc in the way?

3mm is recommended but i'm pikey and tend to try and get another millimetre out of mine if it's a good deal, may as well stick them on now (keep the good ones that come off, incase you pick up puncture/s). 30k's really good (esp. from the fronts) - presumably you won't be needing to do them...

it does vary a lot, depending on driving, but you can wear them down in no time if there are problems with the calipers, especially the rears re^; some have a slot down the middle that you can use to judge. should replace them well before 2-3mm i'd have said, esp. if they're wearing unevenly...

i like mine (Vibratechnics/KTEC and polydogbone) and think they're a good idea if you give the car a hard time, have worn mounts and/or particularly don't like the std mounts (some people do, apparently!)

looking around for pads at the mo and am wondering if anyone on here has found a 'cheap' source for Carbone Lorainnes? going rate seems to be 110-120

it might be as well to leave it be now it's back in but you could take it out again to check the threads. if the bolt's softer than the arm, you may have gotten away with it and just need a new bolt (run a dye through the arm)

you probably don't need do all that much to one to improve it for fastroad/track - engine mounts, exhaust (both of which are poor OE), front pads, lines/fluid. everything else should be ok, although can obv. be spent on

they're the same? interested in knowing for future ref

does sound like a thread issue (assuming it was a loose fit through the damper?). you shouldn't ever 'force' tight bolts when doing them up:(

it should only have the one hanger and 'should' be fine, providing the mid pipe-to-back box clamp is very tight. unless it is, the backbox will twist down, as it has done in your top pic. something like a mikalor/norma clamp is probably your best bet

not sure what's going on in that case. if you're looking to order from AutoNation, i'd call them and ask if they'd mind checking the part number stamped on the damper body - Cup dampers are defo that number above

i may well have made that up, as i can see i've said they're the same in the past. sorry. that's the current part number you want anyway

part nr. 8200662257, £46.54+VAT, last one i had:) AutoNation may well also sell them, but then there's P&P ontop? dunno