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i think there's a simpler way, but i ended up taking the bracket it's mounted to off when i renewed mine

they're not on the list? just bought a set from them as well:dapprove:

i think the line you'll get on here is that they're Renault only and that you need to buy a complete shaft. when i last rang, was told that they've stopped doing exchange shafts (?) Renault won't supply the outer CV only (common in the industry), and no one seems to sell reconditioned CVs...

i've not had the seats out, so don't know - although don't think it's a biggie it's a one piece carpet, so the driver's would have to come out as well unless you're just going to be folding it back hope you can sort it quickly anyway

these can be really irritating to trace but, if you're determined, you'll find it. if you can't identify it from the usual suspects (door seals, door skins, window seals, sill drains, floor/bulkhead grommets, etc), i'd take the carpet/underlay out so that you can see as it forms the airbag...

i rang a local dealer earlier about NFP and was told that it's only available in 5L tubs @ £55+VAT. haven't looked elsewhere yet godspeed, what do you make of those specs? the UK workshop manual states TRX, which is matched by the specs of NFP, but not NFJ (according to those sheets anyway)...

i know - does seem a little awkward; although the 'box is shite enough as it is and (personally) would be happier knowing it's got the bob-on oil in it. i'm sure others would be interested as well

if it's the lower nut that's loose (on the upper gearbox mount), threadlock it on and/or use a new nylock nut

possibly over-analysing already, but if you check the spec sheets, NFP (not NFJ) seems to have identical 'charateristics' to TRX browno, how relevant is all of this? and is anyone sure of Renault's current recommendation? last two are in French.. TRX -...

interesting stuff. having just had a look at the NFJ/TRX spec sheets and seeing that they're both GL4, think i'll change my GL5 TRT for one of them, before the box blows up again

it'd probably be easiest to find some sort of schematic diagram you've got two universal joints in the column and bearings in the struts as well. then there's the geometry (toe in/out). your probs might be more to do with the suspension than the steering, but it's all interconnected

have a read on wiki/etc about gear oil specs - GL5 is the highest (it's related to the anti shear additives, or something), and there are some GL5 oils with more additives than others (technically, 'better') never figured out how the TransElf range works - i thought NFJ/etc were the...

easiest to do in the order you've thought need about 1L fluid, but best buy at least 2, just incase. if you use an easibleed, that'll help minimise fluid loss. also, if you use a coloured fluid (like ATE Super Blue), it's much easier to tell once you're getting good, clean new fluid through...

fair do's; i think they're over £100ea otherwise i've had one damper and one spring fail so far, have renewed just those, and it feels no different to me - although it is recommended that you renew across axles, if not the full set

have you priced the Renault springs yet? it's not good:dead: you should ('really') renew both across the axle as well

yeah, only asked about the 16s. may be the 15s are more popular, as you say. dirt-cheap though, for the 15s!

mine came from Camskill - £260 delivered for a set of four. guy told me they tend to keep several sets in stock

i did PM Warren to ask, and he said (i think) that he'd done about 10k on his, including 3 track days, and that they still had tread when he shifted them on they're good vfm; just bought a set. think i'll stick with them, providing they're not pap

didn't think it was too bad on mine was also a little worried about damaging the injector seals and squirted them with WD before pulling the rail out. also made sure the tubes they live in were clean and lightly greased the seals before putting it back - all fine only minor nause was having...

might help: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=273579&highlight=wilwood+master+cylinder

i'd check with someone who's got the same calipers and master cylinder - it's just that, if you up the surface area of the piston/s in the caliper, you'll alter the pedal feel - what you've got might be as they are if they're supposed to give a solid pedal, right at the top, it must be...

presumably still air in it; could there be a prob with the rear compensator? assume the pads are bedded in

should the calipers you've got be a good match for the std master cylinder? (eg. it's not known to change the pedal feel, due to increased piston size, etc)

did you fit the washers? (can't tell from pic)

ECP do top mounts/bearings for about £50-60/set (got part numbers of you want them). think they're quite a bit more from Renault but may be wrong (can you save by buying the 1.2 top mounts, which are apparently the same?) i think you can only buy complete arms from Renault, but can get...

before buying bits, you all need to diagnose to be sure of what's creating your noises. there are numerous things it could be, and you could all have different problems unhelpful comment, but saves buying stuff to find it was something else

can't compare them with PE2s, but i've just put a set on, changed from Contisports. only just gone on, so can't comment on grip, but they're surprisingly quiet compared with the Contis someone with experience will be along, but here's an interesting test comparison in the meantime...

it should retain its colour for alot longer than engine oil as there's no carbon involved chances are you couldn't get all of the old oil out when you changed it, and its just discoloured the new stuff

scratched at least one brand new disc when it was stood on end, so laid flat now. same as PS2, which was worse for it i think

make sure the pin and the taper in the hub are clean as well. worst comes to the worst, use a non nylock nut and threadlock it on, or a k-nut